How to dress when you are a bigger or taller gentleman
07 October 2016
For gentleman who are taller and/or more heavyset than most, dressing well can often prove a challenge as not all of the generalised styling rules will apply to you.
But do not fear, here are some tips to keep you looking suave, no matter what the scales might be saying:-
1) DRESS FOR THE BODY YOU HAVE, NOT THE BODY YOU WANT
The first mistake that many larger gents make is
repeating to themselves “I won’t buy any clothes yet, I’ll wait until I’m my goal weight”. The idea of dressing well is to utilise your clothes so that they flatter your body as it is,
right now. Wear a suit that’s too big and you will look larger than you actually are. Wear a suit too tight and you run the risk of looking like a stuffed sausage! If it takes half a year to reach your ideal weight, that’s 6 months of sausage impressions. Not a good look.
So always buy a suit that fits you perfectly at your current weight and alter it as you go along, until you hit your ideal weight. That way, you’ll look sharp the whole time you are losing weight, and when you finally get to where you want to be you can reward yourself with a brand new suit, bespoke to your brand new body shape.
2) THE FIT
If you’re sporting a belly, the first thing you’re likely to find when buying an off the peg suit is that, to get a jacket to fit round the waist, the shoulder and chest size will be too large. If this is the case, try and find a jacket in a regular fit rather than a tailored or slim fit. This will mean a better fit on the chest and shoulder, but the cut of the jacket will also have more cloth on the waist so it still closes.
When wearing a single-breasted suit, try a single button instead of two buttons. Single button suits often lower the point at which the button fastens and therefore creates a longer “V” shape on the wearer’s torso. This will take attention away from the wearer’s width and instead directs the eye down the body, making the wearer appear taller and leaner.
The key to a well fitting trouser is mostly down to the length. Once you have found a comfortable waist size for you, have the trouser shortened so that there isn’t a huge mass of excess cloth at the hem. The creases on the front and back of the trouser should sit completely flat. The smooth lines of the creases will again create the illusion of length instead of width. Pair this with a jacket that doesn’t bag or pull, and you’ll already be looking a stone lighter – without having looked at a lettuce!
3) CLOTHS AND PATTERNS
If you are already large, it is wise to avoid cloths that will make you look larger. Avoid thicker cloths such as flannels and worsted wools. Instead, light twills and herringbones are your best
friend, providing both a sleeker aesthetic and a cooler, less sweat-inducing, wearing experience.
When choosing patterns it is best to err on the conservative side, as large and loud can deter from the smooth fit that you have worked so hard to find. Large checks for example can create an illusion of width, further accentuating a wide stomach. Pinstripes work in the opposite way; drawing the eye up the body to create height. For that reason, we would recommend either solid colours or stripes. If you simply have to have checks, try to keep the check small and the colour tame.
So there you have it. Armed with this knowledge,perhaps you will see your body in your new suit and think “Hey, I already look great in a suit, I don’t need to go to the gym!” Perhaps seeing your body in a new well-fitting suit will drive you to hit the gym harder. Whatever the conclusion gentlemen, you’ll be looking good and feeling great – what else matters?