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Ensuring the right fit when you choose a suit

24 March 2015

Suits have certainly made a comeback in the past few years, with men choosing vintage and modern tailored looks for both work and nights out. However, if you’re not used to wearing a suit, it can be difficult to spot what looks good and what doesn’t, with many men simply not being able to spot whether a suit fits well or not. When trying on a suit, you should look out for some of these common mistakes that can ruin the look of a smart suit, and mean that you need to head off to a tailor.

Trouser length

A common sight with men’s trousers is a pooling of too much fabric around the ankles when the length is too long. On the opposite end, you may see men with trousers that are too short, with some of their socks exposed even when they are standing up. A good tailor will make your trousers the right length for a ‘trouser break’, a small dimple where the trouser fabric meets your shoe, and the best way to achieve this perfect look is to get your trousers hand-made by a tailor.

Trouser seat

It’s not just the waist of the trousers you should consider when deciding whether they fit; the seat of the trousers is also key to getting the right look. The fabric on the seat should look smooth, without excess fabric, and should allow you to sit comfortably.

Jackets

There are several areas on a jacket that you should look at when you pick one out, and it’s usually best to consider a bespoke jacket made by a tailor to get the right fit. Problem areas can include:

• Shoulders – fabric bunching around the shoulders can mean the jacket is too small. Many men also pick jackets that are too big, leading to odd looking proportions.

• Arm length – your jacket sleeves should show about half an inch of your shirt sleeves, any more or less and the fit can look all wrong.

• Jacket length – this will depend on the style of suit, so it’s best to consult a tailor to decide on the right length for the occasion. Generally, a work suit will have a jacket that falls halfway down the buttock area.

When you decide to buy a suit, there are many different things to consider, and some men simply don’t have the eye that a professional tailor does. The right suit can really flatter a man’s shape, while the wrong size can make them look like they have strange proportions and can look cheap and scruffy. That’s why it’s always best to go bespoke, with suits made to be as flattering and comfortable as possible, and alterations included to ensure a perfect fit that you simply won’t get when buying off the peg.

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