This is a mans world, isn’t it?
23 August 2016
There are many avenues to explore when it comes to the tailoring world. Theres 2 pieces, 3 pieces, double breasted, dinner suits, work suits.. I could go on and on. But all too often neglected is the mysterious world of Women's bespoke suits.
The reason a well-fitted suit looks so good on a man is all down to the power of illusion. A strong broad shoulder and a nipped in waist gives the illusion of - or shows off - a strong athletic figure (a trait desired by most gentlemen). This stems from the days of upright military men in their suits. Though looks can be tweaked and individualised to a degree – the choices are often down to one or two options – governed by tradition and social norms.
However, Styling options for women’s suits allow much more decorative and interesting designs – you lucky people you. Inverted lapels are a popular choice, and perhaps belt loops on your jacket to allow for the extra accessory? Padded shoulders to add a little flair? An asymmetric double breasted? Layered lapels? Piping around the lapels and on the pocket seams? How simple or dramatic your suit is depends completely on your style, let loose!
And it's not just the style you have more freedom on; having more curves to accentuate means the style of the suit can be played with much more, and can lead to a much more individual aesthetic. By following your curves closely with the suit you will create an elegant classy silhouette; look to Emma Watson in a slim trouser and a tight fitting double-breasted jacket. Simple elegance. Try a pencil skirt instead of the trouser for the warmer months, and go single-breasted with a waistcoat to add layers.
A brighter suit makes a statement and can help you to individualise yourself, but it can run the risk of being too much fashionista and not enough professional. So for a regatta or classy cocktails you can own the turquoise, greens and reds – if her majesty the queen can pull off all the colours of a Crayola box, then so can you! Just don’t bring the rainbow to work if everyone else is being conservative, let the dark colours and details do the talking for you instead.
So how do I introduce colour into my work suits I hear you cry?! The answer? Lining. A conservative dark suit will serve you well in any formal situation, but it doesn’t need to blend in with the ocean of miserable looking suits. You’ve got your added detail from the inverted lapels and roped shoulders, so keep the colour to yourself. Instead of going towards a plain colour, choose something more unique to suit you. A Japanese themed silk crane lining is a beautiful alternative, and adds a flash of colour too. Perhaps match it to a bespoke scarf in the same cloth as a finishing touch?
So there it is. You’ve got more styles to play with, you’ve got more unique body shapes to rock and as long as you’re not meeting the CEO for an uber important meeting that day – you’ve got more freedom to pull off the louder colours. Don’t let the men have all the fun, show them how its done!