The Importance of Choosing The Right Cloth For Your New Suit

We work with a range of high quality cloths to ensure your suit looks and feels luxurious. For the winter your suit will be made from heavier wools. While summer suits are made from lighter weight wools and mohair.

Bespoke Wool Suits

We use the finest 'super 100s wool', from the wool mills of Yorkshire.  Scabal and Dugdales are one of our main sources of wool, which are of the highest quality. The higher the 'super' number your suit is made from, the higher the grade of fabric. Raw wool measured to be finer than 18.5 microns is at least "100s Grade". There are 110s, 120s, 130s, 140s, 150s...all the way to our highest grade which is 220s. Super 100 or above feels better on the body because this finer wool is capable of being spun into finer 'yarn counts', which in turn can be woven into lighter cloths.

Choosing the Correct Fabric Weave

Another important point to consider is the fabric's weave, which are 'plain weave' or 'twill weave' fabrics. Plain weave, also known as tropical weave is like a basket weave with one yarn overlapping or alternatively passing under the adjacent yarn in a grid-like fashion. There is less yarn in plain weave construction and less weight, which is good for warm climates. Twills come in a huge variety of weave constructions, but will usually be what's called three or four 'harness'. Three harnesses are lighter, a compromise between tropical and four harness construction. Patterns are more varied than with plain weave, but not as rich and complex as patterns found in four harness weaving.