It’s easy to get confused by the terms
‘made to measure’.
Unhelpfully, the Advertising Standards Authority
once declared there to be no difference
. This has allowed those selling made to measure to claim they are bespoke when actually they are not. At Fielding & Nicholson, we are delighted to offer you the best of both options. This post will explain how the processes work, where they’re different, and help you to decide which will work best for you.
The Savile Row definition of bespoke
In London tailoring, ‘bespoke’ has always been used to describe the ultimate in a personalised garment-creating service. Historically, Savile Row was the place to go.
No corners will have been cut in the way your bespoke suit is made. Each step of that process is unique, slow and painstaking. Everything is created from the ground up to your own very personal requirements, dictated fully by your physiology, lifestyle and taste. Your measurements are taken and a pattern constructed from scratch. There are little or no limitations placed on the cloth to be used, or the style to be cut, or indeed any of the finishing details, from lining to buttonholes. The fit is checked meticulously – before, during and after. Nothing is rushed. It takes time and care.
A second skin
The result? Wearing bespoke is like wearing a second skin – a skin in which you become more fully yourself. This skin shows you to your best advantage: years younger, more svelte. Dapper. Elegant. The garment moves with you. And that’s why once someone starts wearing bespoke, they rarely return to off-the-peg.
The fine art of tailoring – a labour of love
When you buy bespoke, you’re really investing in the artistry and artisanship of someone who probably had a longer training than your doctor. A tailoring apprenticeship entails the slow acquisition of expertise - in reading the lines of the body, in assessing the drape of a fabric, in ingraining the skills of hand-stitching. Such skills and know-how accumulate through diligence, perseverance and patience.
And the process of bespoke is another world compared with any other garment-buying experience. Personal. Discreet. Thoughtful. Precise. And time-consuming: 40-50 hours will go into creating your suit. The fit will be assessed several times mid-process.
Made to measure
If bespoke is beyond your pocket, then made to measure is a more affordable option that still includes a marked degree of customisation. As before, your measurements are carefully taken, but used to adjust a pre-existing block pattern so that the resulting suit’s fit is several steps above one bought off the peg.
You will generally be offered a set range of cuts/patterns to choose from, and a more limited choice of fabrics and finishing details. Some parts of the made-to-measure process may be worked by machine, some parts still hand-stitched. There are fewer personal fittings than bespoke, and fewer or no tweaks to the fit along the way, so the process relies quite heavily on the accuracy of the initial measuring up.
Generally, computer-aided design (CAD) and other technological advances have closed the gap between the price of ready to wear and made to measure. However, bespoke, with its personalisation of fit and style will always be the benchmark for the best in handmade garments.
There is an impressive breadth of ways in which a suit can be accessorised; however, accessories aren't always suitable on all occasions where wearing a suit would be. You could make a major faux pas if you fail to heed this advice; therefore, it's worth educating yourself about what is appropriate and when. With the following tips, you can make the right impression in key situations.
Winter can be a testing season - not least as there can often be ice to scrape off the car, train cancellations due to brutal weather, and much greater difficulty in keeping warm. However, for this time of year, finding attire that keeps the cold at bay while still looking smart does not necessarily have to be arduous.
Here are three particular style elements that can prove especially effective during those colder months and, here at Fielding & Nicholson, we can put into clothing for you.
Besides being a good sales tactic(!) there is a very good reason for buying an extra pair of trousers when you purchase your bespoke suit.
Want to look your best this winter? Then read on to discover our top tips for men’s wear style this autumn/winter season. It’s all about the fabric and the cut, so it’s time to get your wardrobe in order.
Want to step out in style? Then step into our new showroom in Shoreditch. We’re pleased to announce that our new showroom has opened for business.
If you’ve been disappointed with the cut, fit or quality of the suits you’ve purchased in the past, then make your way to Fielding and Nicholson. Step through our doors, and you’ll find a range of handmade off the peg suits, a fitting room, our cutting table and a plethora of fabrics from which to choose a custom made suit. Our skilled tailoring team will also be on hand to assist you.