For gentleman who are taller and/or more heavyset than most, dressing well can often prove a challenge as not all of the generalised styling rules will apply to you.
But do not fear, here are some tips to keep you looking suave, no matter what the scales might be saying:-
1) DRESS FOR THE BODY YOU HAVE, NOT THE BODY YOU WANT
The first mistake that many larger gents make is
repeating to themselves “I won’t buy any clothes yet, I’ll wait until I’m my goal weight”. The idea of dressing well is to utilise your clothes so that they flatter your body as it is,
right now. Wear a suit that’s too big and you will look larger than you actually are. Wear a suit too tight and you run the risk of looking like a stuffed sausage! If it takes half a year to reach your ideal weight, that’s 6 months of sausage impressions. Not a good look.
So always buy a suit that fits you perfectly at your current weight and alter it as you go along, until you hit your ideal weight. That way, you’ll look sharp the whole time you are losing weight, and when you finally get to where you want to be you can reward yourself with a brand new suit, bespoke to your brand new body shape.
2) THE FIT
If you’re sporting a belly, the first thing you’re likely to find when buying an off the peg suit is that, to get a jacket to fit round the waist, the shoulder and chest size will be too large. If this is the case, try and find a jacket in a regular fit rather than a tailored or slim fit. This will mean a better fit on the chest and shoulder, but the cut of the jacket will also have more cloth on the waist so it still closes.
When wearing a single-breasted suit, try a single button instead of two buttons. Single button suits often lower the point at which the button fastens and therefore creates a longer “V” shape on the wearer’s torso. This will take attention away from the wearer’s width and instead directs the eye down the body, making the wearer appear taller and leaner.
The key to a well fitting trouser is mostly down to the length. Once you have found a comfortable waist size for you, have the trouser shortened so that there isn’t a huge mass of excess cloth at the hem. The creases on the front and back of the trouser should sit completely flat. The smooth lines of the creases will again create the illusion of length instead of width. Pair this with a jacket that doesn’t bag or pull, and you’ll already be looking a stone lighter – without having looked at a lettuce!
3) CLOTHS AND PATTERNS
If you are already large, it is wise to avoid cloths that will make you look larger. Avoid thicker cloths such as flannels and worsted wools. Instead, light twills and herringbones are your best
friend, providing both a sleeker aesthetic and a cooler, less sweat-inducing, wearing experience.
When choosing patterns it is best to err on the conservative side, as large and loud can deter from the smooth fit that you have worked so hard to find. Large checks for example can create an illusion of width, further accentuating a wide stomach. Pinstripes work in the opposite way; drawing the eye up the body to create height. For that reason, we would recommend either solid colours or stripes. If you simply have to have checks, try to keep the check small and the colour tame.
So there you have it. Armed with this knowledge,perhaps you will see your body in your new suit and think “Hey, I already look great in a suit, I don’t need to go to the gym!” Perhaps seeing your body in a new well-fitting suit will drive you to hit the gym harder. Whatever the conclusion gentlemen, you’ll be looking good and feeling great – what else matters?
Winter can be a testing season - not least as there can often be ice to scrape off the car, train cancellations due to brutal weather, and much greater difficulty in keeping warm. However, for this time of year, finding attire that keeps the cold at bay while still looking smart does not necessarily have to be arduous.
Here are three particular style elements that can prove especially effective during those colder months and, here at Fielding & Nicholson, we can put into clothing for you.
Besides being a good sales tactic(!) there is a very good reason for buying an extra pair of trousers when you purchase your bespoke suit.
Want to look your best this winter? Then read on to discover our top tips for men’s wear style this autumn/winter season. It’s all about the fabric and the cut, so it’s time to get your wardrobe in order.
Want to step out in style? Then step into our new showroom in Shoreditch. We’re pleased to announce that our new showroom has opened for business.
If you’ve been disappointed with the cut, fit or quality of the suits you’ve purchased in the past, then make your way to Fielding and Nicholson. Step through our doors, and you’ll find a range of handmade off the peg suits, a fitting room, our cutting table and a plethora of fabrics from which to choose a custom made suit. Our skilled tailoring team will also be on hand to assist you.
Ever wondered what the difference is between a tuxedo and a suit – then read on to find out.Satin accents
The choice and use of fabric is a key factor in distinguishing between a tuxedo and a suit. Satin is traditionally employed on tuxedos to provide accents throughout. A satin matching your tuxedo would be used to face or trim the lapels, to cover the buttons, trim the pockets and to make a single stripe down the outside of each leg.
Satin, on the other hand, isn’t seen on a suit. The fabric would be the same throughout, with even the buttons covered to match or alternatively, a classic horn or tortoise shell style instead. The cut, cloth, and style of a suit can vary far more than that of a tuxedo can.
Tuxedos are worn with formal white shirts that have either a wing collar or a turndown collar –though please note debretts disapprove of the former. Tuxedo shirts traditionally have a pleated front too. Suits can be worn with a wider variety of shirts, in either a patterned or a plain fabric.
The cut of your trousers
When it comes to the trousers of your tuxedo, not only will you find satin trims running down the outer side of your legs, but they’ll often have a tapered cut too. You may not find belt loops on the waist – so buy some braces if you need them (though a properly tailored trouser shouldn’t require them).
I t’s all about the accessories
Accessories also mark a distinction between the tuxedo and the suit. Wear a tuxedo, and you’ll be dressed more formally, with cufflinks, button studs, a waistcoat or a cummerbund and perhaps a bowtie too. You might also have a white silk handkerchief peeping from your top left pocket. Wear a suit on the other hand, and you’ll wear a long tie, either with or without a waistcoat.
Shoes at the ready
A high shine patent black dress shoe is the traditional footwear for a tuxedo, whilst with your suit, you have a greater range of options – a traditional oxford perhaps, though you might get away with a more casual loafer or slip-on style. You’ll have a broader range of colours to choose from too, black, brown or tan and more besides – but remember, the darker the shoe, the more formal it is considered.
Where do you wear them? Well, the tuxedo is worn for more formal, usually evening events, such as a black tie wedding, a gala or an awards ceremony, whilst a dark suit will take you pretty much anywhere, from date to board meeting.
Rules it has been said, are made to be broken , the points above explain the key distinctions between the suit and the tuxedo – but more and more now you find the distinctions blurred, tuxedos made with very little satin or worn with a long tie, for instance.
Just in case you were wondering, a tuxedo might also be called a dinner jacket or black tie , whilst white tie is a different thing altogether and much more formal to boot.
London is the traditional capital of menswear . To find the right suit for your special occasion, make an appointment to have a bespoke suit cut specifically for you .
If you’re looking for a style icon to emulate in 2017, read on to discover our pick of the pack and a few hints and tips on their sartorial style.1.Dev Patel
Dev Patel has graduated to style icon following his recent appearances on the red carpet, from the white dinner jacket he donned for the Oscars to the dark blue tuxedo he wore at the Baftas. These days he can be seen in a slim fitting suit, crisp white shirt and a classic pair of well-polished oxfords. Off-duty, he’ll relax in looser, more casual attire, but whichever way he’s dressed, he’ll top it off with his natural, tousled hair. He might not have won his best supporting actor award – but he’s a style icon in our book. What’s not to love about a man who takes his mum along to the Oscars?
2.Prince Michael of Kent
The most dapper member of the Royal Family, known for his signature cotton monaco hat. He’s seen about town wearing a perfectly tailored double-breasted wool blazer, teamed with a high collared shirt and a tie worn in a full Windsor knot – a combination that works brilliantly for him. He’s not afraid of bold pattern and can be seen mixing stripes, spots, and checks to great effect. That’s before we get to the beard, a beard that has a hint of a tsar about it. Prince Michael of Kent our style icon.
Stylish, multi-talented and modest to boot – what’s not to like about Eddie Redmayne. Oscar winner, Burberry model, he's wowed us on screen and off. He loves a suit, whether he's dressed to the nines in a tuxedo for the Oscars or rocking a pinstripe suit with a hint of vintage in its styling. He's comfortable in a suit out and about on the town, as he is at a gala. Cleverly matching a smart jacket and waistcoat with an open collar and worn chinos or flinging on a dapper scarf to muffle him from the cold. He regularly cuts a dash in blue and sometimes adds a hint of claret or green too. He's not afraid of texture either, often seen sporting velvet. Eddie Redmayne - style icon.
Idris knows the value of clothes cut from a good quality fabric and tailored to fit him impeccably. A statement coat, worn with monochrome separates, is a key element of his signature style, often adding an eye-catching splash of mustard or kingfisher blue to his outfit. He’s not afraid of pattern either, sporting a houndstooth check coat or a polka dot tie to liven up his outfits. Cutting a dash about town, Idris is a style icon from which to take note.
Designer, fashion director, buyer and style icon - Nick Wooster leads the pack when it comes to men's fashion. He's worked for some of the leading lights in the fashion and retail world. He can often be seen sporting a smart jacket and a bespoke shirt with sleeves tailored to show off his tattoos. He’s not afraid to throw in a bold pattern here and there either. Sunglasses, plus his distinctive moustache and beard, top off his personal style code. Classic style with a twist personified.
You might have seen Tom Hardy looking a little scary recently in ‘Taboo,' but clock him in a three-piece suit, and there’s something of the dapper Edwardian gentleman about him. Tom favours a dark suit, of the finest quality fabric and he’s not afraid to throw in texture and pattern too – in fact, the latter is an integral part of his style - championing the windowpane suit. He’ll top off his three-piece with keynote accessories such as a tie pin or watch fob. We’ve all seen him looking a little more casual in cargo trousers and a text strewn t-shirt too. However, whether he’s dressing up or down, attention to detail is the defining ingredient of Tom’s style which raises his sartorial efforts above the pack. Tom Hardy - fashion chameleon, we salute you.
There you have it, our style icons for 2017 and a few hints and tips on recreating their personal style. We hope you’ve found it helpful.