When a true London gentleman wants a suit, he does not run to the department store and whip a baggy two-piece off the rack, with a three pack of plastic wrapped shirts thrown in for a discount. Rather, he relies on the skill and artistry of a trusted tailor to handcraft a bespoke suit with a glove-like fit.
Yet buying a tailored suit is not just about standing with your arms out and being sized up with a tape measure. Doing a little bit of thought in preparation for your appointment can make all the difference.
Think About Fabric
One of the most buyer-friendly elements of getting a suit tailored is the fabric. Big name designers will often produce their off-the-rack suits with a fabric grade of around 100s. Though respectable, this is far from the most sophisticated, durable or luxurious grade available. Your tailor will offer you fabric choices all the way up to 180s. Decide how high you want to go before you arrive at your tailor’s door.
Questions Of Style And Taste
There are some key, burning questions all men must answer honourably in their lifetime, most of them to do with suits. Single breasted or double? Two button or three? Are you the sort of gracious gent who follows the latest fashion to the letter? Or are you the wily cad who subverts it with a guileful dash of mischief? Perhaps you like to ignore modern tastes completely and stick with a tried and tested classic look? When you are ready to answer these questions, you are ready for a bespoke suit.
Your Tailor Knows All
Your tailor will know everything there is to know about how to craft a suit. His experienced hands can shape the rich fabric into the specific style you are looking for. Think about those elegant little personal touches that can truly make a suit belong to its owner – an unusual pocket shape here or a specially chosen button design there. Whatever it is, your tailor will know how to make it work for you. Do keep it tasteful, however. Remember: the truly great suit is never noticed. Its wearer always is.
Every man should have at least one bespoke suit in his armoury, whether for business or pleasure. Be sure, when you go to meet your tailor, you get the precise breed of high quality attire you are after.
Ever wondered what the difference is between a tuxedo and a suit – then read on to find out.Satin accents
The choice and use of fabric is a key factor in distinguishing between a tuxedo and a suit. Satin is traditionally employed on tuxedos to provide accents throughout. A satin matching your tuxedo would be used to face or trim the lapels, to cover the buttons, trim the pockets and to make a single stripe down the outside of each leg.
Satin, on the other hand, isn’t seen on a suit. The fabric would be the same throughout, with even the buttons covered to match or alternatively, a classic horn or tortoise shell style instead. The cut, cloth, and style of a suit can vary far more than that of a tuxedo can.
Tuxedos are worn with formal white shirts that have either a wing collar or a turndown collar –though please note debretts disapprove of the former. Tuxedo shirts traditionally have a pleated front too. Suits can be worn with a wider variety of shirts, in either a patterned or a plain fabric.
The cut of your trousers
When it comes to the trousers of your tuxedo, not only will you find satin trims running down the outer side of your legs, but they’ll often have a tapered cut too. You may not find belt loops on the waist – so buy some braces if you need them (though a properly tailored trouser shouldn’t require them).
I t’s all about the accessories
Accessories also mark a distinction between the tuxedo and the suit. Wear a tuxedo, and you’ll be dressed more formally, with cufflinks, button studs, a waistcoat or a cummerbund and perhaps a bowtie too. You might also have a white silk handkerchief peeping from your top left pocket. Wear a suit on the other hand, and you’ll wear a long tie, either with or without a waistcoat.
Shoes at the ready
A high shine patent black dress shoe is the traditional footwear for a tuxedo, whilst with your suit, you have a greater range of options – a traditional oxford perhaps, though you might get away with a more casual loafer or slip-on style. You’ll have a broader range of colours to choose from too, black, brown or tan and more besides – but remember, the darker the shoe, the more formal it is considered.
Where do you wear them? Well, the tuxedo is worn for more formal, usually evening events, such as a black tie wedding, a gala or an awards ceremony, whilst a dark suit will take you pretty much anywhere, from date to board meeting.
Rules it has been said, are made to be broken , the points above explain the key distinctions between the suit and the tuxedo – but more and more now you find the distinctions blurred, tuxedos made with very little satin or worn with a long tie, for instance.
Just in case you were wondering, a tuxedo might also be called a dinner jacket or black tie , whilst white tie is a different thing altogether and much more formal to boot.
London is the traditional capital of menswear . To find the right suit for your special occasion, make an appointment to have a bespoke suit cut specifically for you .
If you’re looking for a style icon to emulate in 2017, read on to discover our pick of the pack and a few hints and tips on their sartorial style.1.Dev Patel
Dev Patel has graduated to style icon following his recent appearances on the red carpet, from the white dinner jacket he donned for the Oscars to the dark blue tuxedo he wore at the Baftas. These days he can be seen in a slim fitting suit, crisp white shirt and a classic pair of well-polished oxfords. Off-duty, he’ll relax in looser, more casual attire, but whichever way he’s dressed, he’ll top it off with his natural, tousled hair. He might not have won his best supporting actor award – but he’s a style icon in our book. What’s not to love about a man who takes his mum along to the Oscars?
2.Prince Michael of Kent
The most dapper member of the Royal Family, known for his signature cotton monaco hat. He’s seen about town wearing a perfectly tailored double-breasted wool blazer, teamed with a high collared shirt and a tie worn in a full Windsor knot – a combination that works brilliantly for him. He’s not afraid of bold pattern and can be seen mixing stripes, spots, and checks to great effect. That’s before we get to the beard, a beard that has a hint of a tsar about it. Prince Michael of Kent our style icon.
Stylish, multi-talented and modest to boot – what’s not to like about Eddie Redmayne. Oscar winner, Burberry model, he's wowed us on screen and off. He loves a suit, whether he's dressed to the nines in a tuxedo for the Oscars or rocking a pinstripe suit with a hint of vintage in its styling. He's comfortable in a suit out and about on the town, as he is at a gala. Cleverly matching a smart jacket and waistcoat with an open collar and worn chinos or flinging on a dapper scarf to muffle him from the cold. He regularly cuts a dash in blue and sometimes adds a hint of claret or green too. He's not afraid of texture either, often seen sporting velvet. Eddie Redmayne - style icon.
Idris knows the value of clothes cut from a good quality fabric and tailored to fit him impeccably. A statement coat, worn with monochrome separates, is a key element of his signature style, often adding an eye-catching splash of mustard or kingfisher blue to his outfit. He’s not afraid of pattern either, sporting a houndstooth check coat or a polka dot tie to liven up his outfits. Cutting a dash about town, Idris is a style icon from which to take note.
Designer, fashion director, buyer and style icon - Nick Wooster leads the pack when it comes to men's fashion. He's worked for some of the leading lights in the fashion and retail world. He can often be seen sporting a smart jacket and a bespoke shirt with sleeves tailored to show off his tattoos. He’s not afraid to throw in a bold pattern here and there either. Sunglasses, plus his distinctive moustache and beard, top off his personal style code. Classic style with a twist personified.
You might have seen Tom Hardy looking a little scary recently in ‘Taboo,' but clock him in a three-piece suit, and there’s something of the dapper Edwardian gentleman about him. Tom favours a dark suit, of the finest quality fabric and he’s not afraid to throw in texture and pattern too – in fact, the latter is an integral part of his style - championing the windowpane suit. He’ll top off his three-piece with keynote accessories such as a tie pin or watch fob. We’ve all seen him looking a little more casual in cargo trousers and a text strewn t-shirt too. However, whether he’s dressing up or down, attention to detail is the defining ingredient of Tom’s style which raises his sartorial efforts above the pack. Tom Hardy - fashion chameleon, we salute you.
There you have it, our style icons for 2017 and a few hints and tips on recreating their personal style. We hope you’ve found it helpful.
Do you like to wear slim fitting jeans or casual trousers when you’re out and about? Then perhaps a slim fitting suit would be the right choice for you. Want to know how you should be wearing one? Then read on to find out.A slim fitting suit, when fitted properly, will flatter your figure, following (rather than hiding) the natural contours of your body. You won’t find as much excess fabric as you would in a more traditional cut, and the suit itself will create a sharper silhouette.
When it comes to the jacket, the shoulder seams should sit at the end of your shoulder blades, let them drop off the end, and you’ll have too much fabric for the slim fit you’re trying to achieve. Too narrow at the shoulders and you’ll have unflattering and tell-tale pull marks across your back. A slim fitting jacket will also tend to have higher armholes and more tapered sleeves too. The lapels will also mirror the slimmer cut, being narrower than on a traditional suit. The body of the jacket will nip in a little at the waist, to show off your physique – but it shouldn’t be too tight. Here’s a rule of thumb, you should be able to do up all of your buttons comfortably and when you pop your thumb behind the top button – you should be able to pull it away from your body by about an inch – anymore, and you won’t achieve a sharp silhouette. Too tight and you’ll get a deeply unflattering ‘x’ mark where your jacket is straining at the button.
Like the jacket, the trousers will have a more tapered fit than a traditional suit, being slightly narrower at the ankle than at the thigh. A slim fitting suit should give you a couple of inches to spare both at your thighs and ankles, so take a pinch to see – if there’s any less, then you’re looking at a skinny fit instead. When it comes to length, the trousers will usually be fitted to a slightly shorter length than a traditional suit, just reaching the top of your shoes – covering your bows but not the rest of your laces.
A word about accessories, when you’re wearing a slim-fitting suit, the rest of your clothes should echo the slim, sleek look too. So do search out a slim fitting tie and tie it appropriately . As Debrett’s say “ties serve no practical purpose so they might as well serve a sartorial one ” – so find the right one for your suit. Don’t forget you’ll need a slim fitting shirt or you’ll risk finding yourself with unsightly lumps and bumps around your waist. Look for shoes with a more tapered look too.
When you first put on a slim fitting suit, it will feel snugger than you’re used to, and you might need a little time to adjust to it. Accurate measuring is a must to find a slim fitting suit that fits and flatters you. To find a slim fitting suit that you’ll feel comfortable in and that you can be sure compliments your natural stance, contact us today .
Our client’s purchase a large variety of bespoke garments, ranging from über smart dinner wear through to relaxed casual linen shirts and chinos. Less frequently however, do we get requests for bespoke loungewear. Not being a company to turn down a challenge, we sat down with the imaginative client and discussed style.The client was already – unsurprisingly - a bespoke addict. Having already filled his suiting wardrobe we knew his style well, but this time he desired something a little different. With the business suits we made for him we had decided to keep them dark and subtle, while we branched out a little further for his casual garments, letting his creative flair free. This resulted in much brighter more textured garments for him to wear to parties and casual events. The gown was to be somewhere between the two styles, business smartness with casual colour and depth.
The client had found the cloth by chance whilst on his travels and immediately had the idea of a dressing gown. He showed us several meters of the beautifully unique 12oz wool herringbone in maroon and cream, and asked if it would be suitable for the robe that his imagination had conjured.
A tailor’s inspection of the cloth revealed that the cloth was certainly heavy enough to keep the client warm but though the lightly brushed wool was very soft to touch, it may feel itchy on bare skin. This wouldn’t be a problem however – by lining the gown in silk (much like a suit), a luxurious barrier between skin and cloth is created. A maroon twill lining was selected to match the cloth and the designing began.
After sketching a few draft versions, we found ourselves looking at one perfect design and one grinning client. The final design combined elements of both suiting styles and run of the mill dressing gown aesthetic. It was to have two patch pockets on the hip – as one would expect on a dressing gown– and a patch breast pocket, which is more commonly seen on suit jackets. The cuffs would be turned back to reveal the lining and the tops of the pockets would have a band of the lining showing to match the cuffs. The lapel would be a wide shawl, also in the lining cloth. We debated adding quilting to the lapel, but eventually decided that having the detail of quilting next to an already busy herringbone would create too much of a messy finish.
The resulting design was a gown that somewhat resembles an elongated smoking jacket with a dressing gown belt. Perfect.
Unlike a coat or a suit, one needs to be able to perform a wide range of movement in a dressing gown. Where a jacket or coat would be removed to sit, a dressing gown would be kept on while the wearer sips his morning coffee and reads his newspaper. This meant the client’s existing patterns would be redundant. Where his normal style calls for silhouette hugging precision, the gown would have to be much looser on all fronts. A new, larger pattern was created and used to cut a first fitting of the gown in an alternative scrap cloth. Once chalked, pinned and analysed, the first fitting was taken apart and re-cut to the new measurements. Once re-constructed with the alterations, we called in the client for his second fitting. Bingo. The new pattern was perfect.
It was a little larger on the chest and shoulder than his suit jackets, but was still fitted enough to maintain shape without bunching or pleating. The waist, seat and sleeve measurements were all increased substantially to allow for more movement. The shoulders fit very similarly to that of a coat while the body was loosened for comfort. The mix of suit style and dressing gown comfort was achieved. An ever-increasingly excited client was sent away again - his next fitting would be final.
Well, with regards to monitoring ones carbon footprint that is. But relating to suits, casual jackets and trousers alike; this year green is being seen ever more frequently and luckily for us, wearing green is easy. So how can you do it?First things first, it’s worth looking at the shades of green you have to work with. While a suit in a deep forest green cloth would radiate a dark and subtle air, the same suit in a luminous lime green cloth would convey flamboyance and eccentricity. It is for this reason that you should carefully consider where you intend to wear the garment. Are you trying to peacock at a party or are you just spicing up an otherwise blue and grey dominated work-wear wardrobe?
The season should also impact your choice of shade. Speaking mostly of casual garments; in the summer brighter colours are the norm, while in the winter darker more autumnal colours are favoured. Though brighter suits are sometimes seen in offices during the summer months, turning up in any suit of a particularly bright nature is risky. So as a rule of thumb, the darker shades of green will be more formal and therefore acceptable for the office, lighter shades will suit summer casual the best.
As well as the season affecting your choice of garment colour it should also affect your choice of cloth material. Swatch 2, for example, is made from an 8oz linen and cotton blend. Both linen and cotton are natural fibers with great breathability – perfect for keeping cool in the heat of summer, less perfect for insulation on a cold winter’s day. The only real down side to cotton and linen – either blended or alone – is that they will crease very easily. It is for this reason that they make great casual jackets; full suits however will become very crumpled and lose their formality.
If you are choosing to have a full suit made up in green, choosing a cloth with just one solid colour will make it easier to dress up to be more formal. For example, dressing a deep British racing green (Pictured bottom left) suit with a crisp white shirt, burgundy knit tie and oxblood monk strap shoes will give you a smart look similar to that of your normal navy suit and white shirt. An alternative look for the same suit might consist of a tan brogue and a light blue shirt worn with an open collar – this is much more relaxed look, perfect for after work drinks in the sun.
If you are happy with regular work-wear colours for your suits but like more unusual casual garments, then a brighter or a patterned green cloth may be more to your taste (See swatches 2, 3, 5 and 6). For example, a jacket made up of swatch 2 would pair beautifully with cream chinos, dark brown brogues and an open collar denim shirt. For a look more casual still, pair the same jacket with a pair of blue jeans and an off-white polo shirt and clean white sneakers.
There are cloths with so many shades and patterns available that creating your own unique look has almost endless possibilities. From a dark (swatch 4) single-breasted wool suit to a double breasted olive (swatch 1) cotton suit, the right suit for you is out there.
Many thanks to Scabal for the swatch pictures. Swatches 1, 6 and 4 are from their New Deluxe bunch which consists of a huge variety of lightweight, colourful super 100 wool cloths. Swatch 2 is from the Amalfi bunch, which is full of spectacular patterned cloths made up of wool-linen-cotton-silk blends. As is the St. Tropez bunch from which Swatch 3 has come. Swatch 5 is from the Mosaic bunch, which boasts a selection of beautiful checks in 130 super wools.
In the fashion world there will always be shifts in style as new designs are introduced to the world. A lot of the time these designs are so flamboyant in both style and in colour that they are simply un-wearable in any real world setting.
However, after the initial display of these elaborate runway-show garments, the designs filter through many design technicians and marketing teams alike before said garments are ready for ‘general consumption’, as it were. It is these garments that hit the high street each season and form the coming months taste, stylistically speaking. For example, we’ve seen a rise in long line and torn clothing from within the casual wear industry while the suit industry has been brimming with slim and skinny fits.
Where this is true for high street clothing, it is quite the opposite for traditional bespoke tailoring and its stylish reliability. As we know, the techniques used for creating bespoke suits has remained relatively unchanged for over centuries. In-house tailors advise clients during meetings on cloths and styles. Because tailoring has been traditionally kept in-house like this, only a few tweaks in style have appeared over the years.
This was true up until recent years when the new age of technology opened to the world up to apps like Pinterest and Instagram. With these it became much easier for people to find pictures of the loud runway suit styles and draw inspiration from them. When they then take these ideas to their tailors they have a much more unique, individual idea of what they want their suit to look like. Thus the evolution of bespoke tailoring begins.
Only a few decades ago, suits were seen in mostly subtle greys and blues with pinstripes being the louder option. Now it isn’t uncommon to see much brighter cloths in checks, stripes and various elaborate patterns. For office-wear, the blues and greys remain popular of course but it is in the more casual settings that the louder suits are getting their time to shine.
It is clear that the world is changing faster than ever, as technology offers new ways to create suits with the likes of laser cutting, for example. Even the world renowned tailoring houses of Savile row are changing the way they work; older generations of tailors are beginning to retire, leaving the legacies in the hands of the new generation.
While the shift from subtle old school tailoring to the new age bright tailoring may seem ridiculous to some, it is a change that must be embraced. Old and new can work together and that is what Fielding and Nicholson aims to achieve. By bridging the gap between the expensive old-school Savile row methods and the more affordable new age tech tailoring we bring bespoke back into the 21st century.
Owning a fully bespoke handmade suit is a pleasure like no other and that pleasure will never fade - but it does come with a larger price tag. Choose a suit cut by computer and assembled by hand and you will have the best of both worlds. Or, choose to go made to measure with an entirely computerised suit – there’s an option for everyone. The biggest perk of all? You can browse the internet for inspiration to your hearts content and when you find the style you want – no matter how ornate it may be – you know you can have it made just like that, because its bespoke. We look forward to seeing your styles!
Many gentlemen confuse the two and then don’t understand why their fitted suit doesn’t last as long as their looser suits, even though they both “fit”. The difference is quite simple: if a suit
, it follows your natural body shape precisely and will fit like a second skin. A
suit on the other hand will be much closer to the body. This will accentuate the figure of the wearer, which perhaps is why younger or more athletic gents tend to choose them.
It is more of a fashion trend to have a fitted suit, whereas suits that fit are more of a classic style. Though there is nothing wrong with favoring fitted suits, they are more likely to wear quicker due to extra stress on the tightly pulled seams.
Suits that fit
The shoulder on suits that fit will end exactly on your natural shoulder. The sleeve will then fall in a straight, un-interrupted line. The wearer will notice that the suit is hugging them a little closer than they might be used to if they are typically an off the peg wearer, however there will be enough cloth for the wearer to still move comfortably in.
The waist on suits that fit will gently follow the wearer’s natural waist, with about an inch of allowance for comfort and movement. There should be no “X” shape on the cloth around where the button fastens.
The sleeve on suits that fit will allow for plenty of movement, whilst still eliminating extra cloth that would give a baggy look to the sleeve.
The trousers on suits that fit will fall completely straight down the creases that run along the front and back of the trouser. There will be 1.5+ inches of room in the thigh and a little more at the hem – often between 2-3 inches more. This means that when the wearer walks there is still plenty of space for the leg to move without putting pressure on the seams, likewise when the wearer is seated and their thighs expand. At the hem of the trouser will typically be either a ½ or ¼ break – dependent on the wearer’s taste, which helps with maintaining clean lines with no baggy excess cloth.
Suits that are fitted
The shoulder on a fitted suit will finish just before the wearer’s natural shoulder does, resulting in a tighter fit across the wearers back. Instead of the sleeve falling straight and smooth line down the arm, the cloth will instead bend around the wearers shoulder cap. Movement is reduced and - depending on how tight the shoulder is – the seams will be under higher pressure, which will weaken them over time.
The waist on a fitted suit will be cut much closer to the body, to the point that there is often no allowance for movement. This means that while a slimmer aesthetic may have been achieved, there will be an “X” around the fastened button where the cloth is pulling.
The sleeve on a fitted suit will be much slimmer, following the wearer’s arm much more closely. This means that as the wearer bends their arms, the cloth will hug the muscles closely as they expand – a desirable trait for anyone proud of their gym achievements.
The trousers on a suit that is fitted will be much slimmer at the hem, often offering as little as 1 inch of room for the leg to move around in. Through the knee and thigh the trouser will also be much tighter and as a result the seat will hug the wearers buttocks closely. The hem of the trouser often stops well before the shoe; meaning breaks on fitted trousers are seen much less often. If the trouser were to be left at normal length whist so close to the wearer’s leg, the result would be unsightly bunching at the ankle. The reduced room in the trouser will aid in showing off slimmer legs but will reduce flexibility and durability.
A fitted suit will serve well at keeping the wearer in-trend and will assist in highlighting an athletic figure. In terms of day-to-day wear however, the tightly pulled seams will give way much quicker over time. For a party or one-off event, your fitted suit will serve you well. If however you’re a daily suit wearer, you’re going to get a more comfortable and longer lasting garment if you choose to wear a suit that fits.
“A man should look as if he has bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then forgotten all about them” – Hardy Amies.
Buying your clothes with intelligence is easy when you have the combined brainpower of yourself and your trusted tailor. With your own sense of style and your tailors knowledge on cloth types and suit styles, you can be sure that what you’re buying will suit your environment and taste whilst fitting both your body & needs.
For example, a tan linen suit looks great in a bar at the weekend in Italy but in the office in the middle of British winter you will simply look foolish. This relates specifically to those of you who are notorious impulse buyers. Yes – the green velvet cloth you’ve been shown is beautiful and it’s understandable that you want it, but thinking realistically – are you really going to wear it?
Dressing with care relates to the way you pair your individual items together to create your outfit. Having bespoke clothes will make you look sharp, but even bespoke items will look out-of-place if the outfit is not carefully put together. An example would be dressing for an important meeting by pairing your immaculate navy business suit with a loud checked shirt and an equally offensive tie. Even though the look might work in a more quirky and casual environment, turning up to a meeting like this will only serve in making you look out of place. Had you have taken more care in the outfit; you would perhaps have paired the navy suit with a crisp white shirt and a burgundy tie. This would have created a classic professional look that couldn’t have failed.
The same goes for the more detailed parts of your look; a mistake like a clashing tie and shirt is a particularly dramatic example. Details like wearing brown shoes and a black belt is something seen all too often. Black shoes = black belt. Silver watch = Silver cufflinks. These little touches are what makes all the difference and is what separates a good outfit from a perfect outfit.
Forgetting about it
How often do you find yourself fiddling with your tie knot, tugging at your cuffs, re-tying your shoelaces or rescuing a sunken pocket square? Little things that you don’t really think about, but all of the above points contribute two negative points that rub off on your image:
1.) Constant fidgeting with your outfit shows a lack of poise. Fiddling gives the impression of dis-comfort and nervousness – an undesirable look especially in a professional environment.
2.) By playing with your cuffs or pocket-square all day, it is likely you will dirty them. A crisp white shirt is clean and professional. A white shirt with dirtied fingerprints all over the cuffs and collar will do a grand job in making you look like a careless schoolboy, writhing in his uncomfortable new uniform.
The cures here are simple: firstly, buy intelligently to start with. If your sleeves are made bespoke to your measurement, you will never need to chase your cuff in order to keep it the correct length. If you buy a tie that is wide enough for you to comfortably create a knot that you don’t have to play with, you wont need to re-adjust every ten minutes.
Secondly, be more careful when you dress. Double knot your shoelaces to prevent a rogue lace. Use a tie bar to pin your tie down if you know you’re going to be distracted by it. Pin your pocket square in place if you know it has a devious habit of sliding out of sight.
Have you caught the theme? A (Intelligent buying) + B (Careful dressing) = C (Forgetting about it). Successful execution of this sartorial equation will result in you looking smarter and being more poised, therefore helping you stand out as the leading man (or woman) in any office.
Such a small addition to any gents wardrobe, and yet one that holds so many faux pas. If worn correctly however, a tie bar is a great understated way of adding a little personal touch to ones look.
Not only a style feature, the tie bar is a functional item used to hold your tie to your shirt. Though its purpose shouldn’t come as a shock, it is surprising just how often you will see a rogue tie ending up dunked in a coffee, with a redundant tie bar clinging to the tie uselessly. So, without further ado:
Wear your tie bar if you are wearing a two-piece suit. You’ll be adding both an extra detail to an otherwise simple look and of course you will have a secured tie for the rest of the day.
Match your metals. If you wear other jewelry such as a watch and/or rings, match your tie bar to the metal of those. Silver with silver, gold with gold.
Wear your tie bar between the third and fourth buttons of your shirt. This position should be more or less in line with your breast pocket, which achieves a symmetrical look.
Once you’ve clipped your bar in place, pull the body of the tie upwards from the tie bar. This will bring the top of the tie out a little, adding depth and detail to your look.
Wear a tie bar that is bigger than your tie. For the best look, the bar should cover 3 quarters of the tie, though you can get away with it spanning across half the tie. Anything smaller or bigger will look out of balance.
Wear the tie bar at an angle. Suits are all about balance, proportion and symmetry. Your breast pocket is perfectly horizontal and the placket of your shirt is perfectly vertical, having a randomly angled tie bar will throw the symmetry of the suit off.
Don’t wear a tie bar with a waistcoat or cardigan. The bars purpose is to hold the tie back to your shirt, but if you are wearing a waistcoat, the tie is already going to be pinned to your shirt. Having a tie bar as well as a waistcoat is a belt and braces situation.
Hopefully you are now fully aware of the benefits of a humble tie bar. It’s also worth noting that tie bars will work on plain, patterned, knit or silk ties alike. They’re also versatile enough that you could wear them with smart casual wear. A pair of brogues, dark jeans, check shirt and knit tie with a tie bar for example is a great smart-cas look. Experiment to your own taste with your newfound knowledge!
For a boss or high positioned member of a team, setting a standard is best achieved by leading by example. When there is a time they must arrive to work or a meeting, they will arrive early. When there is a deadline they have to meet, they beat it. When there is a dress code – they own it. In most offices, this means suiting up, and for the bosses, this means going the extra mile.
Less senior members of the team will of course have less of a budget and this leads the majority of work forces to buy the bare minimum that they can get away with. The result? A clear sartorial divide between the senior and junior members of staff.
So, when pushing for a promotion there are a few tips to bare in mind. The first two tips are simple: Firstly, make sure that you always a rrive to work or meetings at the same time as or earlier than the bosses – a simple case of time management will go a long way. Secondly, d on’t just meet your deadlines; destroy them. If you’ve been given a week to complete a project, take some time out of a few evenings and do the project in half a week. Aside a little extra effort, implementing these two tips will cost you nothing and will help you stand out. All that remains is the wardrobe. So how do you dress like your bosses?
First and foremost, the most important point to note when power-dressing is fit. If you haven’t enough cash for a bespoke or Made to Measure, adjust what you have to fit you. Tight or loose suits will make you look inexperienced in wearing a suit and by extension – make you look more junior.
For the most part, dark suits are the safest choice to help you project a message of power. Like dinner suits; they’re dark, simple and they project an image of power and wealth. For example, a midnight blue or black suit paired with a crisp white shirt, a well shined pair of shoes and a dark or monochrome tie will look bold and immaculate. Think Harvey Specter of Suits.
Your other option is to call on an old favorite of bankers, lawyers and Wall Street big shots. The pinstripe. A navy suit with a white pinstripe instantly grabs attention, giving you an immediate presence in any room – perfect for standing out to your bosses. Pair the suit with a blue shirt with contrasting white collar and cuffs and a bold red tie for a splash of eye-catching colour - Wolf of wall street style.
Generally speaking, day-to-day office suits will be two piece single breasted and with a notched lapel. If you were to first change the lapel to a wide peak, you would draw the eyes to your shoulder thus giving the illusion of height and width to your torso. Appearing taller and broader brings connotations of being the alpha; powerful, strong and boss-like. The next suggested change would be the addition of a waistcoat.
The waistcoat increases the suits formality, adds an extra detail and means you have the option of removing your jacket and still looking smart – useful in the heat of summer. If you’re not a fan of the three piece, a double breasted suit is another great way off adding formality to your look, whilst also adding width and height to your torso with its peak lapels.
The devil is always in the detail. On your suits, choosing to have a ticket pocket adds extra detail to your suit that is not often seen on off the peg suits, thus giving you an edge. Coloured button holes on the jacket cuff will also add detail that shows that the garment you’re wearing is bespoke or made to measure. On your shirts having a pin collar adds detail and individuality to your look, as does using other unusual collar choices, like a tab collar or wide cutaway.
A lot of these choices are very specific and therefore are best achieved through buying a made to measure or bespoke suit. Though more expensive, investing in just one immaculate bespoke power suit will pay for itself when you need to be noticed – and it will serve for many years. And besides; once you’ve invested in one to help earn yourself a promotion, you’ll be able to replenish your whole wardrobe with the new and improved paycheck. Good luck…