THE SUIT ORACLE

  • by Admin Account
  • 26 Aug, 2016

We know there are a million questions to be asked about suits and style and we do our best to provide you with the information that you require. But what if what we’re saying doesn’t apply to you?

Never fear, “The Suit Oracle” is here!

From this Friday forth I will be answering all and any questions you may have about suits and style. Tips, facts, opinions and rules – whatever your question, it shall be answered.

Go on test me, I love a challenge…

Q: I’ve got a dinner party coming up at the end of September but I don’t really know much about dinner suit etiquette – what are the tuxedo basics?

A: I’m glad you ask! There are many faux pars to be made with dinner jackets. The basic things to remember: NEVER have notch lapels. Make sure you’ve got a peak or shawl lapel in satin. True dinner jackets should have no vent on them - though more modern styles sometimes have center vents, this is frowned upon. Have satin-jetted pockets. Flap pockets create un-necessary bulk, and patch pockets should be reserved for casual jackets.

Q: I’m clearing my wardrobe out and having a complete overhaul. I can’t afford to buy all bespoke at once, so what kind of suit should I buy bespoke, and what should I buy off the peg?

A: Another good question. If you were to buy one uber-special bespoke suit, I would recommend a single breasted 3 piece navy suit. Navy will work in almost any situation, from a big work meeting to a wedding. Opt for 9-10oz wool so that your suit will be comfortable throughout the year. I say a 3 piece specifically, as in the winter, the vest can provide an extra layer of warmth – and a waistcoat is often seen at weddings, so it will save you buying a separate wedding suit! Here at Fielding and Nicholson we have two levels of made to measure suits that will fit like a bespoke but with less of the price tag. If you can, we’d suggest buying one fully or semi-Bespoke suit as your special suit, and buying made to measure suits for your day-to-day usage. 1 Bespoke and 2 made to measure suits is better than 1 bespoke and 4 off the peg suits!

Q: I am a little shorter and narrower than most of my colleagues so I buy suits in a size up to make myself appear larger. It works, but I get told I look scruffy quite often – is there a way I can look bigger without looking scruffy?

A: Of course there is! The secret is in the styling. You don’t need to sacrifice fit. Always make sure your clothes fit you, this is how you avoid looking scruffy. If you wish to look bigger, chose a peak lapel over a notch lapel, and have your pockets slanted slightly. The peak lapel will draw the eye up your body to your shoulders, therefore creating the illusion of height and width. The base of the lapel will meet the button, looking similar to the point of an arrow - the slanted pockets also point to the button. As the position of the button is at your naval, attention is drawn into your waist. The slimmer waist then makes the chest look bigger still, and a strong athletic silhouette is created.

Q: I’ve been thinking of buying a bespoke suit, but I’m worried about buying a garment having seen nothing but a small swatch and not a full garment. How do I know that what I’m buying will actually suit me?

A: A fair question, and one asked by many. Our consultants have been trained to match cloth to each clients needs, based on a multitude of variants. We take into account your skin tone, profession, taste and age – and advise accordingly. We take pride in our work; we don’t let clients buy things that wont work. Countless visits to various cloth mills have expanded our knowledge of different cloth types and their qualities. Hours of measurement and figuration training has meant that our team is never caught off guard by any body shape and we know how best to style suits to create the image for yourself that you desire. You call a trusted mechanic to fix your car, and trust what he says. We are tailoring professionals, this is what we do, trust us – the proof is in the pudding!

Fielding & Nicholson - Tailored suits - Blog

by Fielding & Nicholson 20 Oct, 2017

There is an impressive breadth of ways in which a suit can be accessorised; however, accessories aren't always suitable on all occasions where wearing a suit would be. You could make a major faux pas if you fail to heed this advice; therefore, it's worth educating yourself about what is appropriate and when. With the following tips, you can make the right impression in key situations.

by Fielding & Nicholson 10 Oct, 2017
Your chances of success in a job interview will, of course, depend very heavily on the charm and subject knowledge that you reveal. However, you still shouldn't overlook the need to make a positive first impression - one that will form in only seconds.

Your physical appearance can play a big part in that impression; as such, you should be careful with how you dress for the occasion. It's an ideal time to get suited and booted, and here's why.
by Fielding & Nicholson 28 Sep, 2017
It might not surprise you that overcoats have a history dating back centuries. Overcoats, which traditionally extend to about or beneath the knee, have a distinctive look which has made them quickly recognisable in various historical images. So, how has the overcoat developed over the years, decades and centuries to become a form of attire that can provide much comfort?
by Fielding & Nicholson 18 Sep, 2017

Winter can be a testing season - not least as there can often be ice to scrape off the car, train cancellations due to brutal weather, and much greater difficulty in keeping warm. However, for this time of year, finding attire that keeps the cold at bay while still looking smart does not necessarily have to be arduous.

Here are three particular style elements that can prove especially effective during those colder months and, here at Fielding & Nicholson, we can put into clothing for you.

by Fielding & Nicholson 14 Aug, 2017
Credits to: AKAstudio - collective
by Fielding & Nicholson 10 Aug, 2017
The three-piece suit, it’s sophisticated, stylish and versatile. Just look at the fashion icons that wear them, from Idris Elba to Eddie Redmayne , they’ve all donned them to great effect. However, when wearing your jacket, trousers and waistcoat, there are a few elements to bear in mind, so you look your best. We’ve put together a few tips to help you:

Wearing a three piece suit to best effect is all about attention to detail. Firstly, do the top button of your shirt up, but when it comes to your waistcoat, tradition dictates that you leave the bottom button undone. Your waistcoat will be more flattering that way; you’ll look more relaxed and feel more comfortable too. Also, wear your waistcoat so that it rests over the top of your trousers, not under, so it’s covering the belt line.
When wearing a three piece, it’s best not to wear a belt if you can manage without it. If you’ve had your suit tailored to fit you, you shouldn’t need one; and a belt will spoil the line of your suit. As for your jacket, again don’t do up the bottom-most button, as it will help you to retain a crisp, smart silhouette.

A three piece suit needn’t be too formal, as the cut, choice of fabric; colour and accessories can change their look and make them a versatile element of your wardrobe. Yes, a pinstripe suit cuts a dash in the city, and a classic grey suit is suitable for many occasions from weddings to the workplace. However, you can be modish and show some individuality in your choice too. Look around, and you’ll see that blue is fast becoming a popular choice for example.

If you’re starting a new job and you’re not sure what’s appropriate in the office or what’s suitable for a specific occasion, simply opt for an understated and classic choice. If you haven’t had a three piece suit before, then the safest option is to go for a neutral shade with a matching waistcoat. If you want something a little bit more eye-catching, then try a waistcoat in a complimentary colour.  

Opt for a classic three piece suit, and even if you choose an understated fabric, your accessories can introduce a little flamboyance into your outfit and allow you to ring the changes from occasion to occasion. A colourful pocket square adds a striking style note, and you can pair it up with a coordinating tie or jaunty cufflinks. When it comes to your leather accessories, keep to either black or brown – don’t mix them up. Also, a quick word on socks, an often neglected aspect of an outfit, ensure they are long enough that you don’t have an unseemly sock gap.

So, a three piece suit gives you plenty of opportunities to reflect your personal style, with a huge range of fabrics, styles and finishing touches from which to choose. You can opt for a classic look or make it entirely your own. If you’re not sure what to choose when it comes to your suit or accessories; or what’s suitable for a specific occasion, then ask our friendly team of tailoring consultants . However, opt for a three piece suit, and rest assured, it’s likely to be the most versatile piece in your wardrobe.
by Fielding & Nicholson 25 Jul, 2017

Besides being a good sales tactic(!)  there is a very good reason for buying an extra pair of trousers when you purchase your bespoke suit.

by Fielding & Nicholson 21 Jul, 2017

Want to look your best this winter? Then read on to discover our top tips for men’s wear style this autumn/winter season. It’s all about the fabric and the cut, so it’s time to get your wardrobe in order.   

by Fielding & Nicholson 21 Jul, 2017

Want to step out in style? Then step into our new showroom in Shoreditch. We’re pleased to announce that our new showroom has opened for business.

If you’ve been disappointed with the cut, fit or quality of the suits you’ve purchased in the past, then make your way to Fielding and Nicholson. Step through our doors, and you’ll find a range of handmade off the peg suits, a fitting room, our cutting table and a plethora of fabrics from which to choose a custom made suit. Our skilled tailoring team will also be on hand to assist you.    

by Fielding & Nicholson 10 Jul, 2017
Is there anything better than a brand new suit that’s tailored especially for you? We’ve compiled a list of the top ten tailored suits that should feature in every man’s wardrobe, in no particular order because in our opinion, they’re all as essential as each other!
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