• by Admin Account
  • 30 Sep, 2016

Your tailor has been trained to recognise most – if not all – cloths and their weaves by eye. The different weaves and their properties will be engrained into their brain, ready to use at their disposal. Though this is wonderfully useful when you are with your tailor, recognising these weaves without their assistance can prove difficult. If you were then to see a beautiful herringbone jacket whilst on your travels and decided you would like one made – describing it may prove a challenge when you don’t know what the weave is actually called!

Equally important is that you know what you are buying. If you like the look of a cloth but don’t know what you are actually purchasing, you may find that the finished garment is cooler or less durable than you were expecting it to be. For these reasons, we’ve put together a quick guide of weaves to help you out:

TWILL – a Twill is easily identified by the diagonal pattern that the threads in the cloth create when woven. It is a simple looking cloth that is very strong – strong enough that jeans are often made using twill. Twill cloths also drape very well. 4* durability 4* Versatility (Great in heat and cold)
HERRINGBONE – a Herringbone is also known as broken twill, this is because it has two rows of diagonal twills passing opposite each other. The cloth is called herringbone because of its likeness to the skeleton of a herring fish. Because the herringbone pattern is made up of twills, it is equally strong with the added feature of its distinctive pattern. 4* Durability 4* Versatility (Great in heat and cold)
FLANNEL – Flannel is woven from a twill to start with and is then brushed to soften the appearance and feel of the cloth – the brushing also hides the twill underneath. Flannel looks very slightly fluffy in comparison to a plain twill. The fibers are very short and tightly woven. This is why the cloth is very warm and incredibly hardwearing. 5* Durability 2* Versatility (Superb at insulating in cold but with little breathability in heat)
WORSTED WOOL – Very similar to flannel, worsted wool is also made from a brushed twill weave. Much like flannel, worsted wool also looks fluffy in comparison to a plain twill, more so than a flannel. The difference is that the fibers are much longer and the weave is a little looser, meaning the cloth is softer than flannel with a little more breathability. 4* Durability 3* Versatility (Very good at insulating in cold but with little breathability in heat)
HOPSACK – Hopsack is made using a simple basket weave, to create a hatched kind of effect. The threads are woven very loosely, which makes the cloth very breathable – ideal for summer. However, due to the looser weave the cloth is more susceptible to snagging. 2* Durability 2* Versatility (Great breathability in heat but almost no insulating in the cold)

Of these 5 cloths, twill and herringbone are the two most useful for all year round suits. They have great durability and will breath in heat whilst insulating in the cold. Flannel and worsted are joint number one for cold weather suiting when more insulation is required. Hopsack is best saved for warmer climates as it is incredibly breathable.

Though weave has an impact on cloth behaviour, the weight of the fabric will still alter how the cloth performs. A 15oz herringbone will be warmer than a 10oz flannel for example, which is worth bearing in mind.

So there you have it, when you next meet your tailor you will know exactly what you’re looking at or what to ask for!

Happy shopping.

Fielding & Nicholson - Tailored suits - Blog

by Fielding & Nicholson 20 Oct, 2017

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Credits to: AKAstudio - collective
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The three-piece suit, it’s sophisticated, stylish and versatile. Just look at the fashion icons that wear them, from Idris Elba to Eddie Redmayne , they’ve all donned them to great effect. However, when wearing your jacket, trousers and waistcoat, there are a few elements to bear in mind, so you look your best. We’ve put together a few tips to help you:

Wearing a three piece suit to best effect is all about attention to detail. Firstly, do the top button of your shirt up, but when it comes to your waistcoat, tradition dictates that you leave the bottom button undone. Your waistcoat will be more flattering that way; you’ll look more relaxed and feel more comfortable too. Also, wear your waistcoat so that it rests over the top of your trousers, not under, so it’s covering the belt line.
When wearing a three piece, it’s best not to wear a belt if you can manage without it. If you’ve had your suit tailored to fit you, you shouldn’t need one; and a belt will spoil the line of your suit. As for your jacket, again don’t do up the bottom-most button, as it will help you to retain a crisp, smart silhouette.

A three piece suit needn’t be too formal, as the cut, choice of fabric; colour and accessories can change their look and make them a versatile element of your wardrobe. Yes, a pinstripe suit cuts a dash in the city, and a classic grey suit is suitable for many occasions from weddings to the workplace. However, you can be modish and show some individuality in your choice too. Look around, and you’ll see that blue is fast becoming a popular choice for example.

If you’re starting a new job and you’re not sure what’s appropriate in the office or what’s suitable for a specific occasion, simply opt for an understated and classic choice. If you haven’t had a three piece suit before, then the safest option is to go for a neutral shade with a matching waistcoat. If you want something a little bit more eye-catching, then try a waistcoat in a complimentary colour.  

Opt for a classic three piece suit, and even if you choose an understated fabric, your accessories can introduce a little flamboyance into your outfit and allow you to ring the changes from occasion to occasion. A colourful pocket square adds a striking style note, and you can pair it up with a coordinating tie or jaunty cufflinks. When it comes to your leather accessories, keep to either black or brown – don’t mix them up. Also, a quick word on socks, an often neglected aspect of an outfit, ensure they are long enough that you don’t have an unseemly sock gap.

So, a three piece suit gives you plenty of opportunities to reflect your personal style, with a huge range of fabrics, styles and finishing touches from which to choose. You can opt for a classic look or make it entirely your own. If you’re not sure what to choose when it comes to your suit or accessories; or what’s suitable for a specific occasion, then ask our friendly team of tailoring consultants . However, opt for a three piece suit, and rest assured, it’s likely to be the most versatile piece in your wardrobe.
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