• by Admin Account
  • 31 Oct, 2016

A bespoke suit is arguably the best way to make a great first impression. So good in fact, that a bespoke suit will even stand out in a crowd of lesser suits. Once in the office however, the need to sit arises and with this need comes the requirement that you remove your jacket to prevent creasing. At this point the focus is left to your shirt and tie, so, how does the quality of your shirts stack up against the quality of your suits?

With a suit, one has the option to customise so much, so it’s easy to get all the bells and whistles and forget everything else – but we know the keys to style are: consistency, detail and style. A beautiful suit with scuffed shabby shoes will detract from the suit and the same stands for shirts. Notepads at the ready gentlemen.


The fit of your shirt should follow the same guidelines as a suit fit. The aim of the game is to have a shirt that follows your body contour smoothly, without excess cloth and without restricting your movement. If you already have a bespoke suit, have the shirt sleeve made half an inch longer than the jacket sleeve. If you are buying the shirt first, the cuff should fall at the point that your wrist meets your hand. The collar should have enough room in it to allow a finger worth of space.



Kent collar:   A Kent collar is a very basic style. The two sides of the collar will have a small spread (distance from one point to the other) in comparison to other collar styles. This kind of collar will work on both casual and formal shirts. If used for the latter, a four in hand tie knot works perfectly, though other styles will not look out of place.
Cutaway collar: These collars can come with a variety of collar spreads, from semi-cutaway to wide cutaway. The wider space between the collar points means a chunky Windsor knot will sit beautifully. This type of collar is great for formal wear, especial when paired with a well-executed tie knot.

Pin collar: A pin collar works much like a tab collar, in that the two sides of the collar are made slightly closer to one another and then pulled together – in this case – by a collar pin. This pin will also push the tie knot upwards from underneath, which gives two added details, the collar pin and the raised tie. This collar is great for formal occasions that allow for a little more power dressing but, because of the holes in the collar, will look messy undone and without a tie.

Tab collar: A tab collar is named so because there is a small tab that runs between the two sides of the collar. This pulls the collar together and raises the tie knot to add a little more detail. Because of the tab, the two sides of the collar are a little closer together than on a Kent and so small tie knots (like the four in hand) will work best. This kind of collar looks messy when left open, so is best reserved for formal wear and a tie.

Oxford collar: An oxford collar is cut much like a Kent collar, but at the point of both collar sides there is a button which fastens the collar to the shirt. Although this holds the collar neatly in place, the exposed button creates a slightly messy detail that reduces the formality of the shirt. Some older gents choose to wear an oxford collar with a suit and tie, but we would recommend reserving them for casual wear with no tie.

Wing-tip collar:   This type of collar is the most formal style available and should only be reserved for events that mirror this formality. This means white tie events and/or when wearing morning wear. NOT black tie! this is a very common faux pas. When at a white tie event, one should wear this collar type with a bow tie. If worn with morning wear, a cravat is also acceptable.


Button cuff: A button cuff is essentially exactly what it says on the tin: a cuff that fastens via one or more buttons. The most common varieties of button cuffs are one or two buttons. The two button styles can have either the buttons going vertically or horizontally on the cuff. There are also a variety of cuts into the cuff that are available as a detail, such as a rounded edge or a V shaped notch cut into the edge of the cuff. Button cuffs are suitable for formal wear or casual wear but never for black tie.

Double cuff:The double cuff is the most formal of the cuff styles due to the requirement of cufflinks. The cuff is made double the necessary length so that it can be folded back onto itself. There is no button fastening on this style, but instead there are buttonholes for cufflinks of your choosing. This style works brilliantly for formal wear – including dinner and morning events – but will look out of place on a casual shirt.

Cocktail cuff:A great middle ground between a button and single cuff, the cocktail cuff provides the folded back style of the double cuff but with a button fastening instead – great for those who like a formal cuff without the hassle of choosing cufflinks for the day. The cocktail cuff is great for formal and casual wear and – though not a traditional choice – is worn with a dinner suit by James Bond in several of his films.

Shirt Back Styles

Back Darts: As with any clothing, darts pull the garment closer to your body to provide a slimmer fit and silhouette. This is a great way of fitting your shirt if you are a slimmer or more athletically build gentleman.
Back Pleats: As with your trouser, the addition of pleats to a shirt will add extra cloth and in turn, extra room. The pleats can either be seen as a pair on the centre, or one on either shoulder blade.

As well as the details above, many people also opt for a monogram of their initials – commonly on (but not limited to) the cuff or on the pocket of their shirt. Button holes and button stitch (the thread fastening the button to the shirt) can also be coloured for those desiring even further personalisation.

Fielding & Nicholson - Tailored suits - Blog

by Fielding & Nicholson 20 Oct, 2017

There is an impressive breadth of ways in which a suit can be accessorised; however, accessories aren't always suitable on all occasions where wearing a suit would be. You could make a major faux pas if you fail to heed this advice; therefore, it's worth educating yourself about what is appropriate and when. With the following tips, you can make the right impression in key situations.

by Fielding & Nicholson 10 Oct, 2017
Your chances of success in a job interview will, of course, depend very heavily on the charm and subject knowledge that you reveal. However, you still shouldn't overlook the need to make a positive first impression - one that will form in only seconds.

Your physical appearance can play a big part in that impression; as such, you should be careful with how you dress for the occasion. It's an ideal time to get suited and booted, and here's why.
by Fielding & Nicholson 28 Sep, 2017
It might not surprise you that overcoats have a history dating back centuries. Overcoats, which traditionally extend to about or beneath the knee, have a distinctive look which has made them quickly recognisable in various historical images. So, how has the overcoat developed over the years, decades and centuries to become a form of attire that can provide much comfort?
by Fielding & Nicholson 18 Sep, 2017

Winter can be a testing season - not least as there can often be ice to scrape off the car, train cancellations due to brutal weather, and much greater difficulty in keeping warm. However, for this time of year, finding attire that keeps the cold at bay while still looking smart does not necessarily have to be arduous.

Here are three particular style elements that can prove especially effective during those colder months and, here at Fielding & Nicholson, we can put into clothing for you.

by Fielding & Nicholson 14 Aug, 2017
Credits to: AKAstudio - collective
by Fielding & Nicholson 10 Aug, 2017
The three-piece suit, it’s sophisticated, stylish and versatile. Just look at the fashion icons that wear them, from Idris Elba to Eddie Redmayne , they’ve all donned them to great effect. However, when wearing your jacket, trousers and waistcoat, there are a few elements to bear in mind, so you look your best. We’ve put together a few tips to help you:

Wearing a three piece suit to best effect is all about attention to detail. Firstly, do the top button of your shirt up, but when it comes to your waistcoat, tradition dictates that you leave the bottom button undone. Your waistcoat will be more flattering that way; you’ll look more relaxed and feel more comfortable too. Also, wear your waistcoat so that it rests over the top of your trousers, not under, so it’s covering the belt line.
When wearing a three piece, it’s best not to wear a belt if you can manage without it. If you’ve had your suit tailored to fit you, you shouldn’t need one; and a belt will spoil the line of your suit. As for your jacket, again don’t do up the bottom-most button, as it will help you to retain a crisp, smart silhouette.

A three piece suit needn’t be too formal, as the cut, choice of fabric; colour and accessories can change their look and make them a versatile element of your wardrobe. Yes, a pinstripe suit cuts a dash in the city, and a classic grey suit is suitable for many occasions from weddings to the workplace. However, you can be modish and show some individuality in your choice too. Look around, and you’ll see that blue is fast becoming a popular choice for example.

If you’re starting a new job and you’re not sure what’s appropriate in the office or what’s suitable for a specific occasion, simply opt for an understated and classic choice. If you haven’t had a three piece suit before, then the safest option is to go for a neutral shade with a matching waistcoat. If you want something a little bit more eye-catching, then try a waistcoat in a complimentary colour.  

Opt for a classic three piece suit, and even if you choose an understated fabric, your accessories can introduce a little flamboyance into your outfit and allow you to ring the changes from occasion to occasion. A colourful pocket square adds a striking style note, and you can pair it up with a coordinating tie or jaunty cufflinks. When it comes to your leather accessories, keep to either black or brown – don’t mix them up. Also, a quick word on socks, an often neglected aspect of an outfit, ensure they are long enough that you don’t have an unseemly sock gap.

So, a three piece suit gives you plenty of opportunities to reflect your personal style, with a huge range of fabrics, styles and finishing touches from which to choose. You can opt for a classic look or make it entirely your own. If you’re not sure what to choose when it comes to your suit or accessories; or what’s suitable for a specific occasion, then ask our friendly team of tailoring consultants . However, opt for a three piece suit, and rest assured, it’s likely to be the most versatile piece in your wardrobe.
by Fielding & Nicholson 25 Jul, 2017

Besides being a good sales tactic(!)  there is a very good reason for buying an extra pair of trousers when you purchase your bespoke suit.

by Fielding & Nicholson 21 Jul, 2017

Want to look your best this winter? Then read on to discover our top tips for men’s wear style this autumn/winter season. It’s all about the fabric and the cut, so it’s time to get your wardrobe in order.   

by Fielding & Nicholson 21 Jul, 2017

Want to step out in style? Then step into our new showroom in Shoreditch. We’re pleased to announce that our new showroom has opened for business.

If you’ve been disappointed with the cut, fit or quality of the suits you’ve purchased in the past, then make your way to Fielding and Nicholson. Step through our doors, and you’ll find a range of handmade off the peg suits, a fitting room, our cutting table and a plethora of fabrics from which to choose a custom made suit. Our skilled tailoring team will also be on hand to assist you.    

by Fielding & Nicholson 10 Jul, 2017
Is there anything better than a brand new suit that’s tailored especially for you? We’ve compiled a list of the top ten tailored suits that should feature in every man’s wardrobe, in no particular order because in our opinion, they’re all as essential as each other!
More posts
Share by: