F&N_Logo


SHIRT STYLING TO GO WITH YOUR XMAS OFFER!

  • by Admin Account
  • 31 Oct, 2016

A bespoke suit is arguably the best way to make a great first impression. So good in fact, that a bespoke suit will even stand out in a crowd of lesser suits. Once in the office however, the need to sit arises and with this need comes the requirement that you remove your jacket to prevent creasing. At this point the focus is left to your shirt and tie, so, how does the quality of your shirts stack up against the quality of your suits?

With a suit, one has the option to customise so much, so it’s easy to get all the bells and whistles and forget everything else – but we know the keys to style are: consistency, detail and style. A beautiful suit with scuffed shabby shoes will detract from the suit and the same stands for shirts. Notepads at the ready gentlemen.

SHIRT FIT

The fit of your shirt should follow the same guidelines as a suit fit. The aim of the game is to have a shirt that follows your body contour smoothly, without excess cloth and without restricting your movement. If you already have a bespoke suit, have the shirt sleeve made half an inch longer than the jacket sleeve. If you are buying the shirt first, the cuff should fall at the point that your wrist meets your hand. The collar should have enough room in it to allow a finger worth of space.

SHIRT STYLES

Collars

Kent collar:   A Kent collar is a very basic style. The two sides of the collar will have a small spread (distance from one point to the other) in comparison to other collar styles. This kind of collar will work on both casual and formal shirts. If used for the latter, a four in hand tie knot works perfectly, though other styles will not look out of place.
Cutaway collar: These collars can come with a variety of collar spreads, from semi-cutaway to wide cutaway. The wider space between the collar points means a chunky Windsor knot will sit beautifully. This type of collar is great for formal wear, especial when paired with a well-executed tie knot.

Pin collar: A pin collar works much like a tab collar, in that the two sides of the collar are made slightly closer to one another and then pulled together – in this case – by a collar pin. This pin will also push the tie knot upwards from underneath, which gives two added details, the collar pin and the raised tie. This collar is great for formal occasions that allow for a little more power dressing but, because of the holes in the collar, will look messy undone and without a tie.

Tab collar: A tab collar is named so because there is a small tab that runs between the two sides of the collar. This pulls the collar together and raises the tie knot to add a little more detail. Because of the tab, the two sides of the collar are a little closer together than on a Kent and so small tie knots (like the four in hand) will work best. This kind of collar looks messy when left open, so is best reserved for formal wear and a tie.

Oxford collar: An oxford collar is cut much like a Kent collar, but at the point of both collar sides there is a button which fastens the collar to the shirt. Although this holds the collar neatly in place, the exposed button creates a slightly messy detail that reduces the formality of the shirt. Some older gents choose to wear an oxford collar with a suit and tie, but we would recommend reserving them for casual wear with no tie.

Wing-tip collar:   This type of collar is the most formal style available and should only be reserved for events that mirror this formality. This means white tie events and/or when wearing morning wear. NOT black tie! this is a very common faux pas. When at a white tie event, one should wear this collar type with a bow tie. If worn with morning wear, a cravat is also acceptable.

Cuffs

Button cuff: A button cuff is essentially exactly what it says on the tin: a cuff that fastens via one or more buttons. The most common varieties of button cuffs are one or two buttons. The two button styles can have either the buttons going vertically or horizontally on the cuff. There are also a variety of cuts into the cuff that are available as a detail, such as a rounded edge or a V shaped notch cut into the edge of the cuff. Button cuffs are suitable for formal wear or casual wear but never for black tie.

Double cuff:The double cuff is the most formal of the cuff styles due to the requirement of cufflinks. The cuff is made double the necessary length so that it can be folded back onto itself. There is no button fastening on this style, but instead there are buttonholes for cufflinks of your choosing. This style works brilliantly for formal wear – including dinner and morning events – but will look out of place on a casual shirt.

Cocktail cuff:A great middle ground between a button and single cuff, the cocktail cuff provides the folded back style of the double cuff but with a button fastening instead – great for those who like a formal cuff without the hassle of choosing cufflinks for the day. The cocktail cuff is great for formal and casual wear and – though not a traditional choice – is worn with a dinner suit by James Bond in several of his films.

Shirt Back Styles

Back Darts: As with any clothing, darts pull the garment closer to your body to provide a slimmer fit and silhouette. This is a great way of fitting your shirt if you are a slimmer or more athletically build gentleman.
Back Pleats: As with your trouser, the addition of pleats to a shirt will add extra cloth and in turn, extra room. The pleats can either be seen as a pair on the centre, or one on either shoulder blade.

As well as the details above, many people also opt for a monogram of their initials – commonly on (but not limited to) the cuff or on the pocket of their shirt. Button holes and button stitch (the thread fastening the button to the shirt) can also be coloured for those desiring even further personalisation.

Fielding & Nicholson - Tailored suits - Blog

by Fielding & Nicholson 21 Jul, 2017

Want to look your best this winter? Then read on to discover our top tips for men’s wear style this autumn/winter season. It’s all about the fabric and the cut, so it’s time to get your wardrobe in order.   

by Fielding & Nicholson 21 Jul, 2017

Want to step out in style? Then step into our new showroom in Shoreditch. We’re pleased to announce that our new showroom has opened for business.

If you’ve been disappointed with the cut, fit or quality of the suits you’ve purchased in the past, then make your way to Fielding and Nicholson. Step through our doors, and you’ll find a range of handmade off the peg suits, a fitting room, our cutting table and a plethora of fabrics from which to choose a custom made suit. Our skilled tailoring team will also be on hand to assist you.    

by Fielding & Nicholson 10 Jul, 2017
Is there anything better than a brand new suit that’s tailored especially for you? We’ve compiled a list of the top ten tailored suits that should feature in every man’s wardrobe, in no particular order because in our opinion, they’re all as essential as each other!
by Fielding & Nicholson 10 Jul, 2017
It’s official; we are already over halfway through 2017, so we’ve been taking a look at the men’s suit trends that are really making an impact. Read on for all our best advice and tips on how to dress to impress this year.
by Admin Account 29 Mar, 2017

Ever wondered what the difference is between a tuxedo and a suit – then read on to find out.

Satin accents

The choice and use of fabric is a key factor in distinguishing between a tuxedo and a suit. Satin is traditionally employed on tuxedos to provide accents throughout. A satin matching your tuxedo would be used to face or trim the lapels, to cover the buttons, trim the pockets and to make a single stripe down the outside of each leg.

Satin, on the other hand, isn’t seen on a suit. The fabric would be the same throughout, with even the buttons covered to match or alternatively, a classic horn or tortoise shell style instead. The cut, cloth, and style of a suit can vary far more than that of a tuxedo can.

Shirt style

Tuxedos are worn with formal white shirts that have either a wing collar or a turndown collar –though please note debretts disapprove of the former. Tuxedo shirts traditionally have a pleated front too. Suits can be worn with a wider variety of shirts, in either a patterned or a plain fabric.

The cut of your trousers

When it comes to the trousers of your tuxedo, not only will you find satin trims running down the outer side of your legs, but they’ll often have a tapered cut too. You may not find belt loops on the waist – so buy some braces if you need them (though a properly tailored trouser shouldn’t require them).

I t’s all about the accessories

Accessories also mark a distinction between the tuxedo and the suit. Wear a tuxedo, and you’ll be dressed more formally, with cufflinks, button studs, a waistcoat or a cummerbund and perhaps a bowtie too. You might also have a white silk handkerchief peeping from your top left pocket. Wear a suit on the other hand, and you’ll wear a long tie, either with or without a waistcoat.

Shoes at the ready

A high shine patent black dress shoe is the traditional footwear for a tuxedo, whilst with your suit, you have a greater range of options – a traditional oxford perhaps, though you might get away with a more casual loafer or slip-on style. You’ll have a broader range of colours to choose from too, black, brown or tan and more besides – but remember, the darker the shoe, the more formal it is considered.

The event

Where do you wear them? Well, the tuxedo is worn for more formal, usually evening events, such as a black tie wedding, a gala or an awards ceremony, whilst a dark suit will take you pretty much anywhere, from date to board meeting.

The exceptions

Rules it has been said, are made to  be broken , the points above explain the key distinctions between the suit and the tuxedo – but more and more now you find the distinctions blurred, tuxedos made with very little satin or worn with a long tie, for instance.

Just in case you were wondering, a tuxedo might also be called a dinner jacket or  black tie , whilst white tie is a different thing altogether and much more formal to boot.

London is the  traditional capital of menswear . To find the right suit for your special occasion,  make an appointment to have a bespoke suit cut specifically for you .

by Admin Account 27 Mar, 2017

If you’re looking for a style icon to emulate in 2017, read on to discover our pick of the pack and a few hints and tips on their sartorial style.

1.Dev Patel

Dev Patel has graduated to style icon following his recent appearances on the red carpet, from the white dinner jacket he donned for the Oscars to the dark blue tuxedo he wore at the Baftas. These days he can be seen in a slim fitting suit, crisp white shirt and a classic pair of well-polished oxfords. Off-duty, he’ll relax in looser, more casual attire, but whichever way he’s dressed, he’ll top it off with his natural, tousled hair. He might not have won his best supporting actor award – but he’s a style icon in our book. What’s not to love about a man who takes his mum along to the Oscars?

2.Prince Michael of Kent

The most dapper member of the Royal Family, known for his signature cotton monaco hat. He’s seen about town wearing a perfectly tailored double-breasted wool blazer, teamed with a high collared shirt and a tie worn in a  full Windsor knot  – a combination that works brilliantly for him. He’s not afraid of bold pattern and can be seen mixing stripes, spots, and checks to great effect. That’s before we get to the beard, a beard that has a hint of a tsar about it. Prince Michael of Kent our style icon.

3.Eddie Redmayne

Stylish, multi-talented and modest to boot – what’s not to like about Eddie Redmayne. Oscar winner, Burberry model, he's wowed us on screen and off. He loves a suit, whether he's dressed to the nines in a tuxedo for the Oscars or rocking a pinstripe suit with a hint of vintage in its styling. He's comfortable in a suit out and about on the town, as he is at a gala. Cleverly matching a smart jacket and waistcoat with an open collar and worn chinos or flinging on a dapper scarf to muffle him from the cold. He regularly cuts a dash in blue and sometimes adds a hint of claret or green too. He's not afraid of texture either, often seen sporting velvet. Eddie Redmayne - style icon.

4.Idris Elba

Idris knows the value of clothes cut from a good quality fabric and tailored to fit him impeccably. A statement coat, worn with monochrome separates, is a key element of his signature style, often adding an eye-catching splash of mustard or kingfisher blue to his outfit. He’s not afraid of pattern either, sporting a houndstooth check coat or a polka dot tie to liven up his outfits. Cutting a dash about town, Idris is a style icon from which to take note.

5.Nick Wooster

Designer, fashion director, buyer and style icon -  Nick Wooster  leads the pack when it comes to men's fashion. He's worked for some of the leading lights in the fashion and retail world. He can often be seen sporting a smart jacket and a bespoke shirt with sleeves tailored to show off his tattoos. He’s not afraid to throw in a bold pattern here and there either. Sunglasses, plus his distinctive moustache and beard, top off his personal style code. Classic style with a twist personified.

6.Tom Hardy

You might have seen Tom Hardy looking a little scary recently in ‘Taboo,' but clock him in a three-piece suit, and there’s something of the dapper Edwardian gentleman about him. Tom favours a dark suit, of the finest quality fabric and he’s not afraid to throw in texture and pattern too – in fact, the latter is an integral part of his style - championing the windowpane suit. He’ll top off his three-piece with keynote accessories such as a tie pin or watch fob. We’ve all seen him looking a little more casual in cargo trousers and a text strewn t-shirt too. However, whether he’s dressing up or down, attention to detail is the defining ingredient of Tom’s style which raises his sartorial efforts above the pack. Tom Hardy - fashion chameleon, we salute you.

There you have it, our style icons for 2017 and a few hints and tips on recreating their personal style. We hope you’ve found it helpful.

by Admin Account 24 Mar, 2017

Do you like to wear slim fitting jeans or casual trousers when you’re out and about? Then perhaps a slim fitting suit would be the right choice for you. Want to know how you should be wearing one? Then read on to find out.

A slim fitting suit, when fitted properly, will flatter your figure, following (rather than hiding) the natural contours of your body. You won’t find as much excess fabric as you would in a more traditional cut, and the suit itself will create a sharper silhouette.

When it comes to the jacket, the shoulder seams should sit at the end of your shoulder blades, let them drop off the end, and you’ll have too much fabric for the slim fit you’re trying to achieve. Too narrow at the shoulders and you’ll have unflattering and tell-tale pull marks across your back. A slim fitting jacket will also tend to have higher armholes and more tapered sleeves too. The lapels will also mirror the slimmer cut, being narrower than on a traditional suit. The body of the jacket will nip in a little at the waist, to show off your physique – but it shouldn’t be too tight. Here’s a rule of thumb, you should be able to do up all of your buttons comfortably and when you pop your thumb behind the top button – you should be able to pull it away from your body by about an inch – anymore, and you won’t achieve a sharp silhouette. Too tight and you’ll get a deeply unflattering ‘x’ mark where your jacket is straining at the button.

Like the jacket, the trousers will have a more tapered fit than a traditional suit, being slightly narrower at the ankle than at the thigh. A slim fitting suit should give you a couple of inches to spare both at your thighs and ankles, so take a pinch to see – if there’s any less, then you’re looking at a skinny fit instead. When it comes to length, the trousers will usually be fitted to a slightly shorter length than a traditional suit, just reaching the top of your shoes – covering your bows but not the rest of your laces.

A word about accessories, when you’re wearing a slim-fitting suit, the rest of your clothes should echo the slim, sleek look too. So do search out a slim fitting tie and  tie it appropriately . As Debrett’s say “ties serve no practical purpose so they might as well serve a  sartorial one ” – so find the right one for your suit. Don’t forget you’ll need a slim fitting shirt or you’ll risk finding yourself with unsightly lumps and bumps around your waist. Look for shoes with a more tapered look too.

When you first put on a slim fitting suit, it will feel snugger than you’re used to, and you might need a little time to adjust to it. Accurate measuring is a must to find a slim fitting suit that fits and flatters you. To find a slim fitting suit that you’ll feel comfortable in and that you can be sure compliments your natural stance,  contact us today .

by Admin Account 21 Mar, 2017

Our client’s purchase a large variety of bespoke garments, ranging from über smart dinner wear through to relaxed casual linen shirts and chinos. Less frequently however, do we get requests for bespoke loungewear. Not being a company to turn down a challenge, we sat down with the imaginative client and discussed style.

The client was already – unsurprisingly - a bespoke addict. Having already filled his suiting wardrobe we knew his style well, but this time he desired something a little different. With the business suits we made for him we had decided to keep them dark and subtle, while we branched out a little further for his casual garments, letting his creative flair free. This resulted in much brighter more textured garments for him to wear to parties and casual events. The gown was to be somewhere between the two styles, business smartness with casual colour and depth.

The client had found the cloth by chance whilst on his travels and immediately had the idea of a dressing gown. He showed us several meters of the beautifully unique 12oz wool herringbone in maroon and cream, and asked if it would be suitable for the robe that his imagination had conjured.

A tailor’s inspection of the cloth revealed that the cloth was certainly heavy enough to keep the client warm but though the lightly brushed wool was very soft to touch, it may feel itchy on bare skin. This wouldn’t be a problem however – by lining the gown in silk (much like a suit), a luxurious barrier between skin and cloth is created. A maroon twill lining was selected to match the cloth and the designing began.

After sketching a few draft versions, we found ourselves looking at one perfect design and one grinning client. The final design combined elements of both suiting styles and run of the mill dressing gown aesthetic. It was to have two patch pockets on the hip – as one would expect on a dressing gown– and a patch breast pocket, which is more commonly seen on suit jackets. The cuffs would be turned back to reveal the lining and the tops of the pockets would have a band of the lining showing to match the cuffs. The lapel would be a wide shawl, also in the lining cloth. We debated adding quilting to the lapel, but eventually decided that having the detail of quilting next to an already busy herringbone would create too much of a messy finish.

The resulting design was a gown that somewhat resembles an elongated smoking jacket with a dressing gown belt. Perfect.

Unlike a coat or a suit, one needs to be able to perform a wide range of movement in a dressing gown. Where a jacket or coat would be removed to sit, a dressing gown would be kept on while the wearer sips his morning coffee and reads his newspaper. This meant the client’s existing patterns would be redundant. Where his normal style calls for silhouette hugging precision, the gown would have to be much looser on all fronts. A new, larger pattern was created and used to cut a first fitting of the gown in an alternative scrap cloth. Once chalked, pinned and analysed, the first fitting was taken apart and re-cut to the new measurements. Once re-constructed with the alterations, we called in the client for his second fitting. Bingo. The new pattern was perfect.

It was a little larger on the chest and shoulder than his suit jackets, but was still fitted enough to maintain shape without bunching or pleating. The waist, seat and sleeve measurements were all increased substantially to allow for more movement. The shoulders fit very similarly to that of a coat while the body was loosened for comfort. The mix of suit style and dressing gown comfort was achieved. An ever-increasingly excited client was sent away again - his next fitting would be final.

by Admin Account 28 Feb, 2017

Well, with regards to monitoring ones carbon footprint that is. But relating to suits, casual jackets and trousers alike; this year green is being seen ever more frequently and luckily for us, wearing green is easy. So how can you do it?

First things first, it’s worth looking at the shades of green you have to work with. While a suit in a deep forest green cloth would radiate a dark and subtle air, the same suit in a luminous lime green cloth would convey flamboyance and eccentricity. It is for this reason that you should carefully consider where you intend to wear the garment. Are you trying to peacock at a party or are you just spicing up an otherwise blue and grey dominated work-wear wardrobe?

The season should also impact your choice of shade. Speaking mostly of casual garments; in the summer brighter colours are the norm, while in the winter darker more autumnal colours are favoured. Though brighter suits are sometimes seen in offices during the summer months, turning up in any suit of a particularly bright nature is risky. So as a rule of thumb, the darker shades of green will be more formal and therefore acceptable for the office, lighter shades will suit summer casual the best.

As well as the season affecting your choice of garment colour it should also affect your choice of cloth material. Swatch 2, for example, is made from an 8oz linen and cotton blend. Both linen and cotton are natural fibers with great breathability – perfect for keeping cool in the heat of summer, less perfect for insulation on a cold winter’s day. The only real down side to cotton and linen – either blended or alone – is that they will crease very easily. It is for this reason that they make great casual jackets; full suits however will become very crumpled and lose their formality.

If you are choosing to have a full suit made up in green, choosing a cloth with just one solid colour will make it easier to dress up to be more formal. For example, dressing a deep British racing green (Pictured bottom left) suit with a crisp white shirt, burgundy knit tie and oxblood monk strap shoes will give you a smart look similar to that of your normal navy suit and white shirt. An alternative look for the same suit might consist of a tan brogue and a light blue shirt worn with an open collar – this is much more relaxed look, perfect for after work drinks in the sun.

If you are happy with regular work-wear colours for your suits but like more unusual casual garments, then a brighter or a patterned green cloth may be more to your taste (See swatches 2, 3, 5 and 6). For example, a jacket made up of swatch 2 would pair beautifully with cream chinos, dark brown brogues and an open collar denim shirt. For a look more casual still, pair the same jacket with a pair of blue jeans and an off-white polo shirt and clean white sneakers.

There are cloths with so many shades and patterns available that creating your own unique look has almost endless possibilities. From a dark (swatch 4) single-breasted wool suit to a double breasted olive (swatch 1) cotton suit, the right suit for you is out there.

Many thanks to Scabal for the swatch pictures. Swatches 1, 6 and 4 are from their New Deluxe bunch which consists of a huge variety of lightweight, colourful super 100 wool cloths. Swatch 2 is from the Amalfi bunch, which is full of spectacular patterned cloths made up of wool-linen-cotton-silk blends. As is the St. Tropez bunch from which Swatch 3 has come. Swatch 5 is from the Mosaic bunch, which boasts a selection of beautiful checks in 130 super wools.

by Admin Account 16 Feb, 2017

In the fashion world there will always be shifts in style as new designs are introduced to the world. A lot of the time these designs are so flamboyant in both style and in colour that they are simply un-wearable in any real world setting.

However, after the initial display of these elaborate runway-show garments, the designs filter through many design technicians and marketing teams alike before said garments are ready for ‘general consumption’, as it were. It is these garments that hit the high street each season and form the coming months taste, stylistically speaking. For example, we’ve seen a rise in long line and torn clothing from within the casual wear industry while the suit industry has been brimming with slim and skinny fits.

Where this is true for high street clothing, it is quite the opposite for traditional bespoke tailoring and its stylish reliability. As we know, the techniques used for creating bespoke suits has remained relatively unchanged for over centuries. In-house tailors advise clients during meetings on cloths and styles. Because tailoring has been traditionally kept in-house like this, only a few tweaks in style have appeared over the years.

This was true up until recent years when the new age of technology opened to the world up to apps like Pinterest and Instagram. With these it became much easier for people to find pictures of the loud runway suit styles and draw inspiration from them. When they then take these ideas to their tailors they have a much more unique, individual idea of what they want their suit to look like. Thus the evolution of bespoke tailoring begins.

Only a few decades ago, suits were seen in mostly subtle greys and blues with pinstripes being the louder option. Now it isn’t uncommon to see much brighter cloths in checks, stripes and various elaborate patterns. For office-wear, the blues and greys remain popular of course but it is in the more casual settings that the louder suits are getting their time to shine.

It is clear that the world is changing faster than ever, as technology offers new ways to create suits with the likes of laser cutting, for example. Even the world renowned tailoring houses of Savile row are changing the way they work; older generations of tailors are beginning to retire, leaving the legacies in the hands of the new generation.

While the shift from subtle old school tailoring to the new age bright tailoring may seem ridiculous to some, it is a change that must be embraced. Old and new can work together and that is what Fielding and Nicholson aims to achieve. By bridging the gap between the expensive old-school Savile row methods and the more affordable new age tech tailoring we bring bespoke back into the 21st   century.

Owning a fully bespoke handmade suit is a pleasure like no other and that pleasure will never fade - but it does come with a larger price tag. Choose a suit cut by computer and assembled by hand and you will have the best of both worlds. Or, choose to go made to measure with an entirely computerised suit – there’s an option for everyone. The biggest perk of all? You can browse the internet for inspiration to your hearts content and when you find the style you want – no matter how ornate it may be – you know you can have it made just like that, because its bespoke. We look forward to seeing your styles!

More posts
Share by: