FIT VS FITTED

  • by Admin Account
  • 11 Jan, 2017

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?

Many gentlemen confuse the two and then don’t understand why their fitted suit doesn’t last as long as their looser suits, even though they both “fit”. The difference is quite simple: if a suit   fits , it follows your natural body shape precisely and will fit like a second skin. A   fitted   suit on the other hand will be much closer to the body. This will accentuate the figure of the wearer, which perhaps is why younger or more athletic gents tend to choose them.

It is more of a fashion trend to have a   fitted   suit, whereas suits that   fit   are more of a classic style. Though there is nothing wrong with favoring   fitted   suits, they are more likely to wear quicker due to extra stress on the tightly pulled seams.

Suits that   fit

The shoulder on suits that   fit   will end exactly on your natural shoulder. The sleeve will then fall in a straight, un-interrupted line. The wearer will notice that the suit is hugging them a little closer than they might be used to if they are typically an off the peg wearer, however there will be enough cloth for the wearer to still move comfortably in.

The waist on suits that   fit   will gently follow the wearer’s natural waist, with about an inch of allowance for comfort and movement. There should be no “X” shape on the cloth around where the button fastens.

The sleeve on suits that   fit   will allow for plenty of movement, whilst still eliminating extra cloth that would give a baggy look to the sleeve.

The trousers on suits that   fit   will fall completely straight down the creases that run along the front and back of the trouser. There will be 1.5+ inches of room in the thigh and a little more at the hem – often between 2-3 inches more. This means that when the wearer walks there is still plenty of space for the leg to move without putting pressure on the seams, likewise when the wearer is seated and their thighs expand. At the hem of the trouser will typically be either a ½ or ¼ break – dependent on the wearer’s taste, which helps with maintaining clean lines with no baggy excess cloth.

Suits that are   fitted

The shoulder on a   fitted   suit will finish just before the wearer’s natural shoulder does, resulting in a tighter fit across the wearers back. Instead of the sleeve falling straight and smooth line down the arm, the cloth will instead bend around the wearers shoulder cap. Movement is reduced and - depending on how tight the shoulder is – the seams will be under higher pressure, which will weaken them over time.

The waist on a   fitted   suit will be cut much closer to the body, to the point that there is often no allowance for movement. This means that while a slimmer aesthetic may have been achieved, there will be an “X” around the fastened button where the cloth is pulling.

The sleeve on a   fitted   suit will be much slimmer, following the wearer’s arm much more closely. This means that as the wearer bends their arms, the cloth will hug the muscles closely as they expand – a desirable trait for anyone proud of their gym achievements.

The trousers on a suit that is   fitted   will be much slimmer at the hem, often offering as little as 1 inch of room for the leg to move around in. Through the knee and thigh the trouser will also be much tighter and as a result the seat will hug the wearers buttocks closely. The hem of the trouser often stops well before the shoe; meaning breaks on   fitted   trousers are seen much less often. If the trouser were to be left at normal length whist so close to the wearer’s leg, the result would be unsightly bunching at the ankle. The reduced room in the trouser will aid in showing off slimmer legs but will reduce flexibility and durability.

Summary

A   fitted   suit will serve well at keeping the wearer in-trend and will assist in highlighting an athletic figure. In terms of day-to-day wear however, the tightly pulled seams will give way much quicker over time. For a party or one-off event, your fitted suit will serve you well. If however you’re a daily suit wearer, you’re going to get a more comfortable and longer lasting garment if you choose to wear a suit that   fits.

Fielding & Nicholson - Tailored suits - Blog

by Fielding & Nicholson 20 Oct, 2017

There is an impressive breadth of ways in which a suit can be accessorised; however, accessories aren't always suitable on all occasions where wearing a suit would be. You could make a major faux pas if you fail to heed this advice; therefore, it's worth educating yourself about what is appropriate and when. With the following tips, you can make the right impression in key situations.

by Fielding & Nicholson 10 Oct, 2017
Your chances of success in a job interview will, of course, depend very heavily on the charm and subject knowledge that you reveal. However, you still shouldn't overlook the need to make a positive first impression - one that will form in only seconds.

Your physical appearance can play a big part in that impression; as such, you should be careful with how you dress for the occasion. It's an ideal time to get suited and booted, and here's why.
by Fielding & Nicholson 28 Sep, 2017
It might not surprise you that overcoats have a history dating back centuries. Overcoats, which traditionally extend to about or beneath the knee, have a distinctive look which has made them quickly recognisable in various historical images. So, how has the overcoat developed over the years, decades and centuries to become a form of attire that can provide much comfort?
by Fielding & Nicholson 18 Sep, 2017

Winter can be a testing season - not least as there can often be ice to scrape off the car, train cancellations due to brutal weather, and much greater difficulty in keeping warm. However, for this time of year, finding attire that keeps the cold at bay while still looking smart does not necessarily have to be arduous.

Here are three particular style elements that can prove especially effective during those colder months and, here at Fielding & Nicholson, we can put into clothing for you.

by Fielding & Nicholson 14 Aug, 2017
Credits to: AKAstudio - collective
by Fielding & Nicholson 10 Aug, 2017
The three-piece suit, it’s sophisticated, stylish and versatile. Just look at the fashion icons that wear them, from Idris Elba to Eddie Redmayne , they’ve all donned them to great effect. However, when wearing your jacket, trousers and waistcoat, there are a few elements to bear in mind, so you look your best. We’ve put together a few tips to help you:

Wearing a three piece suit to best effect is all about attention to detail. Firstly, do the top button of your shirt up, but when it comes to your waistcoat, tradition dictates that you leave the bottom button undone. Your waistcoat will be more flattering that way; you’ll look more relaxed and feel more comfortable too. Also, wear your waistcoat so that it rests over the top of your trousers, not under, so it’s covering the belt line.
When wearing a three piece, it’s best not to wear a belt if you can manage without it. If you’ve had your suit tailored to fit you, you shouldn’t need one; and a belt will spoil the line of your suit. As for your jacket, again don’t do up the bottom-most button, as it will help you to retain a crisp, smart silhouette.

A three piece suit needn’t be too formal, as the cut, choice of fabric; colour and accessories can change their look and make them a versatile element of your wardrobe. Yes, a pinstripe suit cuts a dash in the city, and a classic grey suit is suitable for many occasions from weddings to the workplace. However, you can be modish and show some individuality in your choice too. Look around, and you’ll see that blue is fast becoming a popular choice for example.

If you’re starting a new job and you’re not sure what’s appropriate in the office or what’s suitable for a specific occasion, simply opt for an understated and classic choice. If you haven’t had a three piece suit before, then the safest option is to go for a neutral shade with a matching waistcoat. If you want something a little bit more eye-catching, then try a waistcoat in a complimentary colour.  

Opt for a classic three piece suit, and even if you choose an understated fabric, your accessories can introduce a little flamboyance into your outfit and allow you to ring the changes from occasion to occasion. A colourful pocket square adds a striking style note, and you can pair it up with a coordinating tie or jaunty cufflinks. When it comes to your leather accessories, keep to either black or brown – don’t mix them up. Also, a quick word on socks, an often neglected aspect of an outfit, ensure they are long enough that you don’t have an unseemly sock gap.

So, a three piece suit gives you plenty of opportunities to reflect your personal style, with a huge range of fabrics, styles and finishing touches from which to choose. You can opt for a classic look or make it entirely your own. If you’re not sure what to choose when it comes to your suit or accessories; or what’s suitable for a specific occasion, then ask our friendly team of tailoring consultants . However, opt for a three piece suit, and rest assured, it’s likely to be the most versatile piece in your wardrobe.
by Fielding & Nicholson 25 Jul, 2017

Besides being a good sales tactic(!)  there is a very good reason for buying an extra pair of trousers when you purchase your bespoke suit.

by Fielding & Nicholson 21 Jul, 2017

Want to look your best this winter? Then read on to discover our top tips for men’s wear style this autumn/winter season. It’s all about the fabric and the cut, so it’s time to get your wardrobe in order.   

by Fielding & Nicholson 21 Jul, 2017

Want to step out in style? Then step into our new showroom in Shoreditch. We’re pleased to announce that our new showroom has opened for business.

If you’ve been disappointed with the cut, fit or quality of the suits you’ve purchased in the past, then make your way to Fielding and Nicholson. Step through our doors, and you’ll find a range of handmade off the peg suits, a fitting room, our cutting table and a plethora of fabrics from which to choose a custom made suit. Our skilled tailoring team will also be on hand to assist you.    

by Fielding & Nicholson 10 Jul, 2017
Is there anything better than a brand new suit that’s tailored especially for you? We’ve compiled a list of the top ten tailored suits that should feature in every man’s wardrobe, in no particular order because in our opinion, they’re all as essential as each other!
More posts
Share by: