Many gentlemen confuse the two and then don’t understand why their fitted suit doesn’t last as long as their looser suits, even though they both “fit”. The difference is quite simple: if a suit
, it follows your natural body shape precisely and will fit like a second skin. A
suit on the other hand will be much closer to the body. This will accentuate the figure of the wearer, which perhaps is why younger or more athletic gents tend to choose them.
It is more of a fashion trend to have a fitted suit, whereas suits that fit are more of a classic style. Though there is nothing wrong with favoring fitted suits, they are more likely to wear quicker due to extra stress on the tightly pulled seams.
Suits that fit
The shoulder on suits that fit will end exactly on your natural shoulder. The sleeve will then fall in a straight, un-interrupted line. The wearer will notice that the suit is hugging them a little closer than they might be used to if they are typically an off the peg wearer, however there will be enough cloth for the wearer to still move comfortably in.
The waist on suits that fit will gently follow the wearer’s natural waist, with about an inch of allowance for comfort and movement. There should be no “X” shape on the cloth around where the button fastens.
The sleeve on suits that fit will allow for plenty of movement, whilst still eliminating extra cloth that would give a baggy look to the sleeve.
The trousers on suits that fit will fall completely straight down the creases that run along the front and back of the trouser. There will be 1.5+ inches of room in the thigh and a little more at the hem – often between 2-3 inches more. This means that when the wearer walks there is still plenty of space for the leg to move without putting pressure on the seams, likewise when the wearer is seated and their thighs expand. At the hem of the trouser will typically be either a ½ or ¼ break – dependent on the wearer’s taste, which helps with maintaining clean lines with no baggy excess cloth.
Suits that are fitted
The shoulder on a fitted suit will finish just before the wearer’s natural shoulder does, resulting in a tighter fit across the wearers back. Instead of the sleeve falling straight and smooth line down the arm, the cloth will instead bend around the wearers shoulder cap. Movement is reduced and - depending on how tight the shoulder is – the seams will be under higher pressure, which will weaken them over time.
The waist on a fitted suit will be cut much closer to the body, to the point that there is often no allowance for movement. This means that while a slimmer aesthetic may have been achieved, there will be an “X” around the fastened button where the cloth is pulling.
The sleeve on a fitted suit will be much slimmer, following the wearer’s arm much more closely. This means that as the wearer bends their arms, the cloth will hug the muscles closely as they expand – a desirable trait for anyone proud of their gym achievements.
The trousers on a suit that is fitted will be much slimmer at the hem, often offering as little as 1 inch of room for the leg to move around in. Through the knee and thigh the trouser will also be much tighter and as a result the seat will hug the wearers buttocks closely. The hem of the trouser often stops well before the shoe; meaning breaks on fitted trousers are seen much less often. If the trouser were to be left at normal length whist so close to the wearer’s leg, the result would be unsightly bunching at the ankle. The reduced room in the trouser will aid in showing off slimmer legs but will reduce flexibility and durability.
A fitted suit will serve well at keeping the wearer in-trend and will assist in highlighting an athletic figure. In terms of day-to-day wear however, the tightly pulled seams will give way much quicker over time. For a party or one-off event, your fitted suit will serve you well. If however you’re a daily suit wearer, you’re going to get a more comfortable and longer lasting garment if you choose to wear a suit that fits.
Winter can be a testing season - not least as there can often be ice to scrape off the car, train cancellations due to brutal weather, and much greater difficulty in keeping warm. However, for this time of year, finding attire that keeps the cold at bay while still looking smart does not necessarily have to be arduous.
Here are three particular style elements that can prove especially effective during those colder months and, here at Fielding & Nicholson, we can put into clothing for you.
Besides being a good sales tactic(!) there is a very good reason for buying an extra pair of trousers when you purchase your bespoke suit.
Want to look your best this winter? Then read on to discover our top tips for men’s wear style this autumn/winter season. It’s all about the fabric and the cut, so it’s time to get your wardrobe in order.
Want to step out in style? Then step into our new showroom in Shoreditch. We’re pleased to announce that our new showroom has opened for business.
If you’ve been disappointed with the cut, fit or quality of the suits you’ve purchased in the past, then make your way to Fielding and Nicholson. Step through our doors, and you’ll find a range of handmade off the peg suits, a fitting room, our cutting table and a plethora of fabrics from which to choose a custom made suit. Our skilled tailoring team will also be on hand to assist you.
Ever wondered what the difference is between a tuxedo and a suit – then read on to find out.Satin accents
The choice and use of fabric is a key factor in distinguishing between a tuxedo and a suit. Satin is traditionally employed on tuxedos to provide accents throughout. A satin matching your tuxedo would be used to face or trim the lapels, to cover the buttons, trim the pockets and to make a single stripe down the outside of each leg.
Satin, on the other hand, isn’t seen on a suit. The fabric would be the same throughout, with even the buttons covered to match or alternatively, a classic horn or tortoise shell style instead. The cut, cloth, and style of a suit can vary far more than that of a tuxedo can.
Tuxedos are worn with formal white shirts that have either a wing collar or a turndown collar –though please note debretts disapprove of the former. Tuxedo shirts traditionally have a pleated front too. Suits can be worn with a wider variety of shirts, in either a patterned or a plain fabric.
The cut of your trousers
When it comes to the trousers of your tuxedo, not only will you find satin trims running down the outer side of your legs, but they’ll often have a tapered cut too. You may not find belt loops on the waist – so buy some braces if you need them (though a properly tailored trouser shouldn’t require them).
I t’s all about the accessories
Accessories also mark a distinction between the tuxedo and the suit. Wear a tuxedo, and you’ll be dressed more formally, with cufflinks, button studs, a waistcoat or a cummerbund and perhaps a bowtie too. You might also have a white silk handkerchief peeping from your top left pocket. Wear a suit on the other hand, and you’ll wear a long tie, either with or without a waistcoat.
Shoes at the ready
A high shine patent black dress shoe is the traditional footwear for a tuxedo, whilst with your suit, you have a greater range of options – a traditional oxford perhaps, though you might get away with a more casual loafer or slip-on style. You’ll have a broader range of colours to choose from too, black, brown or tan and more besides – but remember, the darker the shoe, the more formal it is considered.
Where do you wear them? Well, the tuxedo is worn for more formal, usually evening events, such as a black tie wedding, a gala or an awards ceremony, whilst a dark suit will take you pretty much anywhere, from date to board meeting.
Rules it has been said, are made to be broken , the points above explain the key distinctions between the suit and the tuxedo – but more and more now you find the distinctions blurred, tuxedos made with very little satin or worn with a long tie, for instance.
Just in case you were wondering, a tuxedo might also be called a dinner jacket or black tie , whilst white tie is a different thing altogether and much more formal to boot.
London is the traditional capital of menswear . To find the right suit for your special occasion, make an appointment to have a bespoke suit cut specifically for you .
If you’re looking for a style icon to emulate in 2017, read on to discover our pick of the pack and a few hints and tips on their sartorial style.1.Dev Patel
Dev Patel has graduated to style icon following his recent appearances on the red carpet, from the white dinner jacket he donned for the Oscars to the dark blue tuxedo he wore at the Baftas. These days he can be seen in a slim fitting suit, crisp white shirt and a classic pair of well-polished oxfords. Off-duty, he’ll relax in looser, more casual attire, but whichever way he’s dressed, he’ll top it off with his natural, tousled hair. He might not have won his best supporting actor award – but he’s a style icon in our book. What’s not to love about a man who takes his mum along to the Oscars?
2.Prince Michael of Kent
The most dapper member of the Royal Family, known for his signature cotton monaco hat. He’s seen about town wearing a perfectly tailored double-breasted wool blazer, teamed with a high collared shirt and a tie worn in a full Windsor knot – a combination that works brilliantly for him. He’s not afraid of bold pattern and can be seen mixing stripes, spots, and checks to great effect. That’s before we get to the beard, a beard that has a hint of a tsar about it. Prince Michael of Kent our style icon.
Stylish, multi-talented and modest to boot – what’s not to like about Eddie Redmayne. Oscar winner, Burberry model, he's wowed us on screen and off. He loves a suit, whether he's dressed to the nines in a tuxedo for the Oscars or rocking a pinstripe suit with a hint of vintage in its styling. He's comfortable in a suit out and about on the town, as he is at a gala. Cleverly matching a smart jacket and waistcoat with an open collar and worn chinos or flinging on a dapper scarf to muffle him from the cold. He regularly cuts a dash in blue and sometimes adds a hint of claret or green too. He's not afraid of texture either, often seen sporting velvet. Eddie Redmayne - style icon.
Idris knows the value of clothes cut from a good quality fabric and tailored to fit him impeccably. A statement coat, worn with monochrome separates, is a key element of his signature style, often adding an eye-catching splash of mustard or kingfisher blue to his outfit. He’s not afraid of pattern either, sporting a houndstooth check coat or a polka dot tie to liven up his outfits. Cutting a dash about town, Idris is a style icon from which to take note.
Designer, fashion director, buyer and style icon - Nick Wooster leads the pack when it comes to men's fashion. He's worked for some of the leading lights in the fashion and retail world. He can often be seen sporting a smart jacket and a bespoke shirt with sleeves tailored to show off his tattoos. He’s not afraid to throw in a bold pattern here and there either. Sunglasses, plus his distinctive moustache and beard, top off his personal style code. Classic style with a twist personified.
You might have seen Tom Hardy looking a little scary recently in ‘Taboo,' but clock him in a three-piece suit, and there’s something of the dapper Edwardian gentleman about him. Tom favours a dark suit, of the finest quality fabric and he’s not afraid to throw in texture and pattern too – in fact, the latter is an integral part of his style - championing the windowpane suit. He’ll top off his three-piece with keynote accessories such as a tie pin or watch fob. We’ve all seen him looking a little more casual in cargo trousers and a text strewn t-shirt too. However, whether he’s dressing up or down, attention to detail is the defining ingredient of Tom’s style which raises his sartorial efforts above the pack. Tom Hardy - fashion chameleon, we salute you.
There you have it, our style icons for 2017 and a few hints and tips on recreating their personal style. We hope you’ve found it helpful.