THREE CUTS COMPARED

  • by Admin Account
  • 22 Sep, 2016

The home of British tailoring is very well known as being Savile row. There are currently 41 tailoring houses on the row, each providing their own unique cut and style. This being said, they are all British tailors. So, what does tailoring look like in other countries?

British

The shoulder - British suits are cut with a firm shoulder and a well-tapered waist. A firm shoulder means quite simply that the shoulder line will be padded to keep a solid line with no breaks or creases in the shoulders silhouette and the measurement used for the jacket will reflect the wearers true shoulder.

The waist - The waist is tapered close to the wearer’s waist, enough that the jacket can close comfortably without pulling around the button. The back of the jacket is most likely to have a double vent, which allows the jacket to move comfortably as the wearer moves.

The trousers – The trousers that match this style of jacket is most often flat fronted (no pleats) which helps keep them narrower. This narrowness is reflected through the entire trouser, finishing at the hem, which is normally cut about 2” wider than the wearer’s ankle. The trouser should be completely strait along the crease at the back, finishing either exactly on or ½ an inch shorter than the heel of the wearer’s shoe. The front of the trousers should have either a full or half break (where the fabric begins to fold over onto itself) on the front crease. Turned up hems are not uncommon, though they are seen more often on double-breasted suits, or single-breasted suits that are slightly less formal.

American

The shoulder - American suits are cut much wider than British or Italian suits are. The shoulders are often heavily padded, and are cut to extend a little beyond the wearers true shoulder.

The Waist - To match this larger shoulder, the jackets waist will have very little tapering on the waist, which gives the garment a squarer shape. The jacket will most likely have no vents, meaning the jacket has little ability to move which will again hold the suits square frame.

The trousers - The trousers will likely be pleated on the front, which will create excess fabric in the trouser. The hem of the trouser will also be much wider than a British or Italian trouser would be, often being 3” wider than the wearer’s ankle. The trouser often has at least one break on the front crease, though more isn’t un-common. On trousers that are cut slightly shorter, they may have turned up hems add extra bulk to the hem, serving as a neater alternative to several breaks.

Italian

The shoulder – Italian suits have two shoulder styles that they tend to use, the roped shoulder and the Neapolitan shoulder. The roped shoulder is similar to the padded English shoulder, but on the seam where the shoulder meets the sleeve it appears as though a rope has been sewn in under the cloth. A Neapolitan shoulder is quite the opposite. Instead of being structured, the shoulder is left with almost no padding, which creates a very soft shoulder line. The sleeve is cut slightly wider than necessary so that when it is tucked into the armhole and sewn, the cloth puckers to create a style feature.

The waist – Similar to British suits, the waist on Italian suits is tapered, though the taper is much more aggressive on an Italian suit. The whole fit of the jacket is very slim and stylish. The back of the jacket will likely only have one single vent, allowing for some movement but not as much as the two side vents.

The trouser – Like the jacket, the trouser is cut very close to the body to give a slim stylish fit. They are normally flat front – though a pleat will sometimes be used for detail. The trousers are often cut shorten than a British trouser, sometimes being as much as 2” off the back of the wearer’s shoe. This style works well with a slightly more casual shoe, such as a loafer. Both plain and turn-up hems are used; turn-ups provide an added style detail to the otherwise plain and simple trousers.

The word “often” is used in this blog frequently because although these characteristics of the suits are a great summary of the styles, people do experiment with different looks. Although there are rules and guidelines in tailoring all over the world, they are bent on occasion to create a more unique look.

Fielding & Nicholson - Tailored suits - Blog

by Fielding & Nicholson 18 Sep, 2017

Winter can be a testing season - not least as there can often be ice to scrape off the car, train cancellations due to brutal weather, and much greater difficulty in keeping warm. However, for this time of year, finding attire that keeps the cold at bay while still looking smart does not necessarily have to be arduous.

Here are three particular style elements that can prove especially effective during those colder months and, here at Fielding & Nicholson, we can put into clothing for you.

by Fielding & Nicholson 14 Aug, 2017
Credits to: AKAstudio - collective
by Fielding & Nicholson 10 Aug, 2017
The three-piece suit, it’s sophisticated, stylish and versatile. Just look at the fashion icons that wear them, from Idris Elba to Eddie Redmayne , they’ve all donned them to great effect. However, when wearing your jacket, trousers and waistcoat, there are a few elements to bear in mind, so you look your best. We’ve put together a few tips to help you:

Wearing a three piece suit to best effect is all about attention to detail. Firstly, do the top button of your shirt up, but when it comes to your waistcoat, tradition dictates that you leave the bottom button undone. Your waistcoat will be more flattering that way; you’ll look more relaxed and feel more comfortable too. Also, wear your waistcoat so that it rests over the top of your trousers, not under, so it’s covering the belt line.
When wearing a three piece, it’s best not to wear a belt if you can manage without it. If you’ve had your suit tailored to fit you, you shouldn’t need one; and a belt will spoil the line of your suit. As for your jacket, again don’t do up the bottom-most button, as it will help you to retain a crisp, smart silhouette.

A three piece suit needn’t be too formal, as the cut, choice of fabric; colour and accessories can change their look and make them a versatile element of your wardrobe. Yes, a pinstripe suit cuts a dash in the city, and a classic grey suit is suitable for many occasions from weddings to the workplace. However, you can be modish and show some individuality in your choice too. Look around, and you’ll see that blue is fast becoming a popular choice for example.

If you’re starting a new job and you’re not sure what’s appropriate in the office or what’s suitable for a specific occasion, simply opt for an understated and classic choice. If you haven’t had a three piece suit before, then the safest option is to go for a neutral shade with a matching waistcoat. If you want something a little bit more eye-catching, then try a waistcoat in a complimentary colour.  

Opt for a classic three piece suit, and even if you choose an understated fabric, your accessories can introduce a little flamboyance into your outfit and allow you to ring the changes from occasion to occasion. A colourful pocket square adds a striking style note, and you can pair it up with a coordinating tie or jaunty cufflinks. When it comes to your leather accessories, keep to either black or brown – don’t mix them up. Also, a quick word on socks, an often neglected aspect of an outfit, ensure they are long enough that you don’t have an unseemly sock gap.

So, a three piece suit gives you plenty of opportunities to reflect your personal style, with a huge range of fabrics, styles and finishing touches from which to choose. You can opt for a classic look or make it entirely your own. If you’re not sure what to choose when it comes to your suit or accessories; or what’s suitable for a specific occasion, then ask our friendly team of tailoring consultants . However, opt for a three piece suit, and rest assured, it’s likely to be the most versatile piece in your wardrobe.
by Fielding & Nicholson 25 Jul, 2017

Besides being a good sales tactic(!)  there is a very good reason for buying an extra pair of trousers when you purchase your bespoke suit.

by Fielding & Nicholson 21 Jul, 2017

Want to look your best this winter? Then read on to discover our top tips for men’s wear style this autumn/winter season. It’s all about the fabric and the cut, so it’s time to get your wardrobe in order.   

by Fielding & Nicholson 21 Jul, 2017

Want to step out in style? Then step into our new showroom in Shoreditch. We’re pleased to announce that our new showroom has opened for business.

If you’ve been disappointed with the cut, fit or quality of the suits you’ve purchased in the past, then make your way to Fielding and Nicholson. Step through our doors, and you’ll find a range of handmade off the peg suits, a fitting room, our cutting table and a plethora of fabrics from which to choose a custom made suit. Our skilled tailoring team will also be on hand to assist you.    

by Fielding & Nicholson 10 Jul, 2017
Is there anything better than a brand new suit that’s tailored especially for you? We’ve compiled a list of the top ten tailored suits that should feature in every man’s wardrobe, in no particular order because in our opinion, they’re all as essential as each other!
by Fielding & Nicholson 10 Jul, 2017
It’s official; we are already over halfway through 2017, so we’ve been taking a look at the men’s suit trends that are really making an impact. Read on for all our best advice and tips on how to dress to impress this year.
by Admin Account 29 Mar, 2017

Ever wondered what the difference is between a tuxedo and a suit – then read on to find out.

Satin accents

The choice and use of fabric is a key factor in distinguishing between a tuxedo and a suit. Satin is traditionally employed on tuxedos to provide accents throughout. A satin matching your tuxedo would be used to face or trim the lapels, to cover the buttons, trim the pockets and to make a single stripe down the outside of each leg.

Satin, on the other hand, isn’t seen on a suit. The fabric would be the same throughout, with even the buttons covered to match or alternatively, a classic horn or tortoise shell style instead. The cut, cloth, and style of a suit can vary far more than that of a tuxedo can.

Shirt style

Tuxedos are worn with formal white shirts that have either a wing collar or a turndown collar –though please note debretts disapprove of the former. Tuxedo shirts traditionally have a pleated front too. Suits can be worn with a wider variety of shirts, in either a patterned or a plain fabric.

The cut of your trousers

When it comes to the trousers of your tuxedo, not only will you find satin trims running down the outer side of your legs, but they’ll often have a tapered cut too. You may not find belt loops on the waist – so buy some braces if you need them (though a properly tailored trouser shouldn’t require them).

I t’s all about the accessories

Accessories also mark a distinction between the tuxedo and the suit. Wear a tuxedo, and you’ll be dressed more formally, with cufflinks, button studs, a waistcoat or a cummerbund and perhaps a bowtie too. You might also have a white silk handkerchief peeping from your top left pocket. Wear a suit on the other hand, and you’ll wear a long tie, either with or without a waistcoat.

Shoes at the ready

A high shine patent black dress shoe is the traditional footwear for a tuxedo, whilst with your suit, you have a greater range of options – a traditional oxford perhaps, though you might get away with a more casual loafer or slip-on style. You’ll have a broader range of colours to choose from too, black, brown or tan and more besides – but remember, the darker the shoe, the more formal it is considered.

The event

Where do you wear them? Well, the tuxedo is worn for more formal, usually evening events, such as a black tie wedding, a gala or an awards ceremony, whilst a dark suit will take you pretty much anywhere, from date to board meeting.

The exceptions

Rules it has been said, are made to  be broken , the points above explain the key distinctions between the suit and the tuxedo – but more and more now you find the distinctions blurred, tuxedos made with very little satin or worn with a long tie, for instance.

Just in case you were wondering, a tuxedo might also be called a dinner jacket or  black tie , whilst white tie is a different thing altogether and much more formal to boot.

London is the  traditional capital of menswear . To find the right suit for your special occasion,  make an appointment to have a bespoke suit cut specifically for you .

by Admin Account 27 Mar, 2017

If you’re looking for a style icon to emulate in 2017, read on to discover our pick of the pack and a few hints and tips on their sartorial style.

1.Dev Patel

Dev Patel has graduated to style icon following his recent appearances on the red carpet, from the white dinner jacket he donned for the Oscars to the dark blue tuxedo he wore at the Baftas. These days he can be seen in a slim fitting suit, crisp white shirt and a classic pair of well-polished oxfords. Off-duty, he’ll relax in looser, more casual attire, but whichever way he’s dressed, he’ll top it off with his natural, tousled hair. He might not have won his best supporting actor award – but he’s a style icon in our book. What’s not to love about a man who takes his mum along to the Oscars?

2.Prince Michael of Kent

The most dapper member of the Royal Family, known for his signature cotton monaco hat. He’s seen about town wearing a perfectly tailored double-breasted wool blazer, teamed with a high collared shirt and a tie worn in a  full Windsor knot  – a combination that works brilliantly for him. He’s not afraid of bold pattern and can be seen mixing stripes, spots, and checks to great effect. That’s before we get to the beard, a beard that has a hint of a tsar about it. Prince Michael of Kent our style icon.

3.Eddie Redmayne

Stylish, multi-talented and modest to boot – what’s not to like about Eddie Redmayne. Oscar winner, Burberry model, he's wowed us on screen and off. He loves a suit, whether he's dressed to the nines in a tuxedo for the Oscars or rocking a pinstripe suit with a hint of vintage in its styling. He's comfortable in a suit out and about on the town, as he is at a gala. Cleverly matching a smart jacket and waistcoat with an open collar and worn chinos or flinging on a dapper scarf to muffle him from the cold. He regularly cuts a dash in blue and sometimes adds a hint of claret or green too. He's not afraid of texture either, often seen sporting velvet. Eddie Redmayne - style icon.

4.Idris Elba

Idris knows the value of clothes cut from a good quality fabric and tailored to fit him impeccably. A statement coat, worn with monochrome separates, is a key element of his signature style, often adding an eye-catching splash of mustard or kingfisher blue to his outfit. He’s not afraid of pattern either, sporting a houndstooth check coat or a polka dot tie to liven up his outfits. Cutting a dash about town, Idris is a style icon from which to take note.

5.Nick Wooster

Designer, fashion director, buyer and style icon -  Nick Wooster  leads the pack when it comes to men's fashion. He's worked for some of the leading lights in the fashion and retail world. He can often be seen sporting a smart jacket and a bespoke shirt with sleeves tailored to show off his tattoos. He’s not afraid to throw in a bold pattern here and there either. Sunglasses, plus his distinctive moustache and beard, top off his personal style code. Classic style with a twist personified.

6.Tom Hardy

You might have seen Tom Hardy looking a little scary recently in ‘Taboo,' but clock him in a three-piece suit, and there’s something of the dapper Edwardian gentleman about him. Tom favours a dark suit, of the finest quality fabric and he’s not afraid to throw in texture and pattern too – in fact, the latter is an integral part of his style - championing the windowpane suit. He’ll top off his three-piece with keynote accessories such as a tie pin or watch fob. We’ve all seen him looking a little more casual in cargo trousers and a text strewn t-shirt too. However, whether he’s dressing up or down, attention to detail is the defining ingredient of Tom’s style which raises his sartorial efforts above the pack. Tom Hardy - fashion chameleon, we salute you.

There you have it, our style icons for 2017 and a few hints and tips on recreating their personal style. We hope you’ve found it helpful.

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